Replies

1. 
   pcooper | Jul 29, 2006 10:42pm | #1

   I have the Kreg jig, and like it. I have tried others that I have seen around and while they work I didn't like them quite as well as the Kreg. May be that I am used to my tools, what I use works really well with no hassle.

2. 
   BruceS | Jul 29, 2006 10:42pm | #2

   With out a doubt the Kreg would be my first choice.  That is if your into pocket hole joinery.   Like everything else it has it's place. 

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   pcooper | Jul 30, 2006 12:57am | #4

   That is a good point. How much stuff do you do with pockets? I don't use it a lot, just in places where I can't seem to figure any other way, and for sure try to hide it instead of plugging the holes. It does have its place. The more I work with projects, the more I try to use more traditional styles of joinery as often as I can such as dovetails and the like, but there are spots that I have to use newer stuff.

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 30, 2006 02:28am | #5

   Yes they do have their place.  Many production shops are using pocket holes for their speed because time is money.  I still prefer a good glued half-lap on cabinet face frame construction.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

3. 
   user-184575 | Jul 30, 2006 12:53am | #3

   I had the K2000 a couple of years ago. Never used it and sold it. I bought the K3 last year. Finally got it out and used it and it has been really sweet on the last 3 sets of cabinets that I've made.

   Kreg does have a real good, well thought out system. The DC on the K3 really helps to keep the hole cuts alot cleaner.

4. 
   Dave45 | Jul 30, 2006 04:45pm | #6

   I've done about a dozen projects with that Kreg pocket screw system and absolutely love it.  Faceframes that used to take 2-3 hours to join with biscuits or dowels (then wait for the glue to dry) now take an hour and can be used as soon as the last screw is driven.  On a couple of projects, I've even used it to attach the faceframe to the carcass.

   If you get one, take the time to set up the drill depth so the pilot drill point stops just short of the bottom of the jig.  If you drive the screws with a cordless drill, make sure you dial the clutch back so it "breaks away" when the screw is just snug.  On one of my first (practice, thankfully) joints, I ran the screw right out the front - lol.

5. 
   Knotscott | Jul 30, 2006 10:13pm | #7

   I've got the $50 Kreg Rocket and love it....it was a gift. I think I'd be just as happy with the basic $20 jig and bit, b/c most of the time I use my Quick Grip clamps instead of the Kreg supplied clamp, and I usually do single holes as opposed to doubles anyway. I'm noticing more and more than Norm is using just the basic jig as opposed to his fancy one. The Kreg K2000 Pro Pack has alot more stuff than the basic jig or the Rocket, but the price difference is worth about a Forrest WWII or some nice lumber.

   http://www1.epinions.com/content_134673698436

1. 
   pins | Jul 30, 2006 10:36pm | #8

   Lee Valley, for one, has an adjustable double pocket hole jig that I have had for years and when you make a jig using one of the DeStaco clamps found here: https://reidecom.reidtool.com/xephr/edit/ITEM_GROUP?query=*START_WITH_ID=73366&query=*GROUP_ID=73366&query=*GROUP_PARENT=3808All this for around $35 and because its a horizontal jig you can drill pocket holes in boards of unlimited lengths. I can post a photo of my setup if anybody wants.John

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 31, 2006 01:49am | #10

   "I can post a photo of my setup if anybody wants."  Yes, pleaseforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   pins | Jul 31, 2006 03:12am | #11

   At great personal sacrifice and at the end of a very long day I took the following pix:The first shows the jig. The board that the DeStaco is mounted on is at 90 degrees to the 'stop' and there is a space between the stop and the DeStaco board. The stop is also undercut to avoid having to worry about sawdust collecting there and mucking up my setup.The second shows the jig with a board and the pocket hole device in place (the stop is thick enough to catch the front of the pocket hole jig so it squares it to the board). I have several of the wood 'spacers' that allow me to insert different thickness boards without having to adjust the DeStaco. The jig hangs on the wall and the dowel you see in pix #1 is where I hang those spacers.The third is another view of the the jig and the board ready to drill.As you will note the 'base' of the jig is just 3/4" particle board so if I want to drill pocket holes in, for example, a 6' board I only have to add a 3/4" spacer out to the right of the jig to support the board. You cannot do 6' boards with a vertical jig, IMHO, without some vertical support, so reinventing the wheel at a cost of over $100 is not necessary.If I need to drill pocket holes in a 6" or wider board I just drill the first holes in all the boards and then move the pocket hole jig out to the other side of the board and in some cases I would have to move the rubber stopper of the DeStaco out as well. So I would drill the holes in the right side of all the boards then move the stopper out and drill all the left sides and spacing is not critical so it does not really matter where they are, only that they will work.JohnUsing reclaimed lumber in Virginia. I go out to the woods and reclaim the trees from the forrest. Touche'

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 31, 2006 06:11pm | #12

   Thank you John!  I'm now much more likely to buy the basic kit, which is all I can afford after last month's spending spree.

   "At great personal sacrifice and at the end of a very long day I took the following pix"   ....With very little personal sacrifice and at the beginning of my day off, I shrunk them for the dial-up folks <big grin>.  See attachments.  (Hint:  open in new window for easiest viewing.)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   pins | Jul 31, 2006 06:29pm | #13

   Why would you buy anybody's basic kit? Rockler has the double pocket hole jig (21296/$11.55) and the clamps (20731 $10.16/150lbs - 20759 $14.03/350 lbs and 20738 $14.93/500lbs) and surely you have some scrap wood and drywall screws lying around.John

3. 
   Knotscott | Jul 31, 2006 07:45pm | #16

   A basic pocket hole jig is plenty capable, and without the hold downs actually offers alot of flexibility, especially for putting pocket holes in the middle of a wide panel.

4. 
   teacherterry | Jul 31, 2006 07:00pm | #14

   This is the reason why I post questions on Knots  - I always get great answers to my queries.  Your system is just great.  I could have spent $140 on the Kreg system and not have gotten anything better than yours.  Looks like yours is even better.  Thanks for the directions and photos.  I will build one soon.

   Terry

    

   PS: Thanks to everyone else for chippping in with your advice, too.

5. 
   pins | Jul 31, 2006 07:19pm | #15

   My pleasure. Save your $ and buy some good wood!John

6. 
   cscwem | Jul 31, 2006 01:42am | #9

   buy the kreg kit..you will not be sorry...

1. 
   achome | Jul 31, 2006 08:26pm | #17

   I agree on the Kreg.  I did alot of work with just a pocket kreg, then jumped up to the whole shebang a few years ago at a ww show.  I think it's the pocket pro or something.  They threw in the right angle clamp at the show; I have not found this to be useful.  Got the updated version for my dad this year.  They have made a better mousetrap!  Nice improvements, one of the best is dust collection.

   BTW my first pocket hole jig was a cheapie double hole aluminum thing from rockler.  Piece of junk; they should not even sell it.

   Johnny