Pocket holes with dowels instead of screws
I’ve got some tricky joinery with skewed dowels to do, would there be any problem with using one of the Kreg type drilling jigs and 2 inch long 3/8 to 1/2 dowel?
Thanks for any suggestions.
I’ve got some tricky joinery with skewed dowels to do, would there be any problem with using one of the Kreg type drilling jigs and 2 inch long 3/8 to 1/2 dowel?
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Replies
Regular bit instead of the stepped kreg bit? Not a lot of meat where it goes through, and kind of odd grain-to-grain setup on the dowel. I don't think I'd trust it for anything I wanted to last.
The Kreg jig drill only drills into one board. In fact it does not even puncture the edge of the first board. The screw, which has a drill point, is what drills into the second board and makes the connection. Dowels won't work since they require a hole in both boards. I'm sure someone else can describe this better.
I understand that, thanks, have never used one before. This is the sort of thing I wanted to do, my eyesight is failing (marking out is just hell) but I do have access to a lot of cheap square section hardwood stock. The plan was to clamp the assembly up around the bracket and drill the holes, glue them in and cut them flush.
I can make my own drilling guides though. The other idea was to replace the two skewed dowels with brass pins and the horizontal dowel with a coach bolt and a pretty wingnut.
This is all just for small display tables.
Thanks for any further suggestions.
Drilling an angled hole like that is going to be a nightmare. If you want to use dowels, that is fine, but just use them in the standard orientation with either a premade jig (Dowelmax or other) or shop made jig!
I believe I would use pocket hole screws as they are meant to be used and then plug the holes with the Kreg plugs or make my own. The single dowel through the center of the triangle corner block doesn't seem effective. Use two pocket hole screws along each short side of the triangle into the two rails. then plug them also if you like. Also, make your rails wide enough so that you can put screws up through the bottom as well. I think you will need it for strength.
Woodworking shortcuts don't seem to last in the long run. It seems like your design would be much better suited for traditional M&T joinery. That being said, you could go the slip tenon route or use a doweling jig.
I would use mortise and tenon joinery. If you want the decorative look of the exposed dowels, inlay them after.
Or, as mentioned above, just use pocket screws, and make more decorative plugs. It will be much stronger than the dowels you want to use.
I think the OP said that he is starting to have vision issues and needs to do it in a way that minimizes precision layout marking.
Something like that might be done on a drill press with radial head. But who has one? Alternatively, Rockler offers this setup, which would create your decorative joints after some jig building.
However, why not use the Kreg screws to make the joint and cut the kreg plugs from a contrasting wood. That will create your look.
The dowel or screw thru the corner block adds nothing to the joint. Just drill a hole and put the contrasting dowel in it.
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