I’m thinking about building a short bench for my living room. I was going to buy pre-made oak legs (queen anne style) and use pocket hole screws (with glue) for the aprons. The seat would actually be a piece of plywood with some padding and upholstery.
Are pocket hole screws with glue strong enough to connect the apron to the legs?
What kind of glue should I use for maximum strength? I was going to use Titebond wood glue. I’ve used epoxies for other woodworking but those joints were painted over. This bench will be stained.
I’m a real newbie hear. I’ve done carpentry with home renovations and built some simple bookcases. This would be first piece of real furniture.
The bench will be 3-4 feet. I’m flexible on that design aspect.
Replies
emaxxman ,
The purists may tell you to use mortise and tenon joints or sliding dovetails , which certainly would work nicely but . pocket screws backed up with some substantial corner blocks to reinforce the corners will also work , titebond works well on Oak . You should have no problem . Of course there are not many real hard rules so this is just one way .
good luck dusty
emaxxman,
I don't think so. Your bench may need to support 400 lbs. If you turn a good chair upside down you'll see M&T, cross blocking into the aprons, and stretchers down below...and they need to support less weight. I don't think pocket screws will cut it...
Edited 9/6/2005 11:22 am ET by BG
Hi BG and emaxxman ,
BG , I would take a calculated guess and say you probably do not use pocket screws in your everyday routine , just as I have but do not use M&T in my normal day . If emaxxman uses an apron that would allow say 3 pocket screws at each joint along with the good size corner blocks I just can't imagine this piece failing . Granted M&T are a sign of true quality and have more glue surface than a pocket joint , but I would wager that all three of us could sit/ stand on the piece without any problems . Have you or do you use pocket screws at all ? A sitting bench ht may only be 18" or so to the top of the cushion , but if there is room rungs and a or stretchers are not a bad idea . If you stagger the screw holes and put 2 in the end aprons and 3 in the side aprons it would avoid any conflicts or weakness .
regards dusty
notDusty,
Your correct, I've only used pocket screws once for some frames holding lattice in the back yard....the screws were fine..the crappy pressure treated wood was the issue.
In the application we're discussing I'm thinking lateral forces on the legs. Comparing what a well designed chair has for lateral forces verses the proposed design ...very significant difference.
If, as you suggest, the apron is wide enough to accomodate 3 screws (ie. up to twice the thickness of the legs) and corner blocks and I would probably include the combination wood/machine screws through the corner blocks and into the legs....maybe. However, he did indicate store bought legs which may not accomodate an apron that wide.
I guess he could try the the pocket screw method...and if not satisfied recut and make tenons.
BG ,
I learned to use dowels for most works , but when I got into business for myself , I ended up being a custom production shop , if you will . After 3 or 4 years or so I met a local cabinetmaker who was known as the best . He realized I was legit and became a friend ( I think to keep his eye on me ) He loaned me a jig that we use on the drill press and told me to think of it this way , an 1/8" of steel had more tensile strength than 3/8" dowels , and the dowels seemed to be not totally accurate as well as causing a split here and there .The screws also eliminated the use of clamps and waiting time . Face frames are the main application I use the screws for . being a . I appreciate your open mindedness .
dusty
pocket screws work great if enough wood to screw them into..
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