Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | May 21, 2007 08:18pm | #1

   Don't know if you want to do this, but on all my lower cabs (painted inside) where I store heavy pots and pans, I ripped 1/4" pieces of 4/4 hard maple, rounded the ends and edges (before ripping) and bradded them to the shelves. No need to finish them, the maple looks fine as it is.

   There's also some ribbed plastic shelf liner that's clear on opaque white you could put down.

    

2. 
   Kevin | May 21, 2007 09:17pm | #2

   My initial thought is that this is probably a bad idea. Mostly because oil-based enamels cure out very slowly. If you applied poly over it before it's cured then there would be a problem - most likely the poly would fail after a while.

   Even if there were no compatibility issue, I don't think poly is going to offer a meaningfully greater mar resistance than the enamel will. Enamels are pretty tough! My suggestion would be to stick with the enamel.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | May 22, 2007 04:49pm | #3

   Oil based enamel paint is just varnish with opaque color pigments added. In other words, as a finish, it is just a "tough" as a polyurethane varnish product once it has had 3-4 weeks to fully cure.

   Over coating with an oil based varnish will impart an amber tone to whatever color the undercoat is.

   Howie.........
4. 
   nikkiwood | May 23, 2007 07:43am | #4

   Kevin has forgotten more about finishing than I will ever know, and I hate to contradict him --- but...............

   In a situation such as you describe, I have for years brushed on a coat of water-based poly over an oil enamel (in my case Ben Moore Satin Impervo).

   I generally wait at least 2-3 days (a week if convenient), sand very lightly with 220 grit, then brush the WB poly on the wear surfaces. I use a satin gloss, to match the gloss level of the paint.

   I have some bookcase shelves where I used this technique maybe 15 years ago, and the surfaces are still pristine.

   EDIT: I also beg to differ about the abrasion resistence of enamels (at least the BM product mentioned above). That paint is about as good as they come, yet it will still show scuff marks when books or dishes are slid onto the surface. The only paint where this has not been a problem for me is with another Ben Moore product, Alkyd Porch and Deck Enamel, which is fortified with polyurethane, and only available in high gloss.

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   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

   
   

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   Edited 5/23/2007 12:49 am by nikkiwood

1. 
   Kevin | May 23, 2007 04:59pm | #5

   I hesitated to answer because I was going strictly off what I thought was theory, having never even considered doing something like that before. And real life experience trumps theory every time. So I'm glad someone who had actually tried it chimed in with a response.

   It would be interesting to do a test piece and then do an adhesion test on it to see how good the bond is.

   Edited 5/23/2007 9:59 am by Kevin