Replies

1. 
   GlennS | Dec 15, 1999 06:03pm | #1

   *
   The proportions are not critical but try an even mix of all three (1/3-1/3-1/3). That's what I approximate it at.

1. 
   don_p | Jul 02, 2000 09:53pm | #2

   *I am trying a new finish on walnut, consisting of 1/3 waterlox's orginal, 1/3 naptha, and 1/3 benwood gloss poly. would anyone have any thoughts if this will work? How about using formsby's tung in place of the waterlox. Thank you in advance for any help.

1. 
   Rod_Cole | Jul 03, 2000 03:58pm | #3

   *What are you trying to achieve? The Original is a wiping varnish. To this you are adding a poly and some thinner. This makes another wiping varnish. You could just add thinner to the poly for yet another wiping varnish. In each case you get a wiping varnish with a little different property. But, unless you have something very specific that you are trying to achieve, I don't really see the point in using both original and poly together.The formhy's tung oil is either a wiping varnish or an oil/varnish. It is not really "tung oil" per se. If you want to experiment with making Danish oils, you would be better off sticking with some 100% oil (either tung or boiled linseed), and some varnish (alkyd or poly), and thinner(mineral spirits or naphtha). Then at least you know what you have.Have fun with the experiments!- Rod Cole

1. 
   donp | Jul 04, 2000 05:31am | #4

   *Rod Thank you for the responseHere are the goals I wanted to achieve with this mixture.1. To experiment with properties of different finishes.2. To get a 1st coat wipe that enhances the grain (like an oil does), But provide an enhanced sealer.3. All within the easy leveling flow of a thinned Poly.4. Ease and speed of a wipe on finish.I have to tell you this is one of the best quality finishes I have ever put on a piece.This is what I did.1. I mixed up 1/3 waterlox-1/3 naptha-1/3 benwood poly and wiped on a coat ( This coat was built up with a second coat just as it had leveled out and there was a slight drag on the folded cotton t-shirt.) I let this dry overnight and then scuff sanded it with a 3m pad. 2 The 2nd and 3rd coats consisted of a 50/50 mixture of naptha and benwood poly. I wiped this on in the same matter, rewiping as soon as it levels out and becomes a little more consistant, and then scuff sanding with 320 wet/dry paper after 12 hours of set time.3. I can't belive how quickly this builds up and it looks simply out standing.I even put a large scratch in my proof board to check how it would cover in a repair situation. The repair was excellent, Though I would not recommed this on grandma's dinner table top.I think one of the reasons I did it this way, was the price of a pure wipe-on finsh.Minwax, waterlox, and watco are very overpriced when bought in the ready to wipe product.I really think this will be the way I will finsh for sometime( UNTIL I DECIDE TO EXPERIMENT ONE MORE TIME)Any comments are welcomeDon P

1. 
   Rod_Cole | Jul 04, 2000 08:54pm | #5

   *I'm glad it worked out for you. I like the waterlox original, but don't use it too often. I generally make my own wiping varnish/poly just as you did with naphtha. I usually put coats on with less time in between and don't sand between coats put on a few hours apart as the varnish will be dry to the touch, but will not be cured. After a few coats in one day I let it sit overnight and sand lightly with 400 to smooth and rub out with gray scotch brite before additional coats. One great advantage to the wiping varnish is that it dries fast enough that dust is not much of an issue.I exect if you put on a light coat of boiled linseed oil and topped that with your wiping varnish, you'd get very nearly the same finish without bothering with the waterlox. One problem for me is that waterlox does not keep well, and as a hobbyist, I don't go throught very quickly.- Rod Cole

2. 
   donp | Jul 06, 2000 01:43am | #6

   *Thanks for the input Rod.I have a question about the use of boiled linseed oil.I have not used it before and have read about different drying times]s for it( anywhere from 2 hours to never) What is the real story on drying time when thinned with MS or naptha and wiped on.Thanks Don P

3. 
   Rod_Cole | Jul 06, 2000 03:32pm | #7

   *Raw linseed oil (which I've never used) is generally refered to as taking half to all of forever to dry. I also have never used "real" boiled linseed oil. I don't know where to get it. The "Boiled Linseed Oil" you get at the hardware store has metalic driers added to it. That generally takes a day or so to dry, depending on temp and humidity. The easiest thing is that if it still smells, it is not dry enough to recoat. - Rod Cole