Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 15, 2004 06:55am | #1

   This is a new one for me. Isn't that the stuff which is supposed to dry in an hour or two?

   Are you putting it on over some kind of oil based stain? If so, how long did the stain set before you applied the poly?

   If not (going over stain), I can only surmise there is something wrong with the batch -- rare, but possible.

   I believe Minwax maintains an 800 help line. I would track down that number, and see what they have to say. Have the can with you, so you can read off the batch number if they ask.

   If you don't want to make the call, I would return the can to where you bought it, and trade it in for another (with a different batch number).

   I don't have to tell you, but this should not be happening....... Let us know how it turns out.

2. 
   MichaelPB | Jun 15, 2004 10:13pm | #2

   I would think that if it drys in any environment, the problem isn't in the finish, the problem lies in the environment it doesn't dry in.  Perhaps there isn't enough heat or ventilation in the basement? 

   Perhaps making a cheap drying tent out of 2X4s and clear plastic that you can leave outside.  Besides, dumping all those VOCs into the house isn't the best thing to do anyway.

   Michael

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 16, 2004 01:53am | #3

   But he did say he's doing this work in a finished basement that is both heated and air conditioned.

   That's why I thought there must be something wrong with the batch, unless he's putting it over an oil stain which has not been given adequate time to set up.

   I don't think he said anything about trying this in some other location, but I think that might be a good idea to see what happens (like out in the garage).

3. 
   builderbill | Jun 16, 2004 03:58am | #4

   called minwax this afternoon and all they gave me was very basic advice that I already knew. I got a can of polycrillic last night and laid that on this morning. It dried in 30 minutes or less.

   The minwax guy actually told me to use a fan which I am not doing because I don want to be sanding dust off my projects all the time.

1. 
   scooter1 | Jun 17, 2004 07:02pm | #5

   Would a few drops of Japan Dryer help cure the poly? It sure works for varnish and oils.

   I am not familar with your product. Ordinary poly dries to the touch in about 4-6 hours and should be ready for re-coating in about 12-14 hours. It cures in about 72 hours.

   My favorite finish is one that Don Kondra gave me here about 3 years ago (which I modified a bit), and I will repeat it for the benefit of others:

   1 part Behlen Rockhard Table Varnish; 1 part Behlen Tung Oil; 2 parts Behlen Varnish Reducer. About a teaspooon of Japan Dryer. Mix only what you need that day or the next, about a quart. The stuff will set up, even in a can, in about a week.

   Apply first coat liberally, wait 5 minutes, and recoat liberally. wait 5 minutes and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Let cure for 12 hours and sand if necessary. Recoat.

   After 4 coats, you can make your final coat on a table top with varnish and reducer only, about 3 parts varnish to 1 part reducer. Let cure 72 hours and sand starting at 300, then 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1200, then 1500, then 2000, then Rubbing Compound, then a final coat of hard wax.

   This is a marvelous soft looking, but rock hard finish that looks like glossy hand rubbed oil but behaves like rock hard varnish.

   Constantines has the finish; your local automobile parts supplier has the fine sandpaper and rubbing compound.

   Thanks, Don!Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934