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I am building a set a kitchen chairs in cherry and maple and would like to try the pure Polymerized Tung Oils that are available from Sutherland Wells (Garrett Wade) and Lee Valley. I have used Waterlox(which I believe has some P.T.O. in it) several times before and been pleased with the results but wanted to try something different. Any opinions and feedback would be welcome.
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I used the Sutherland Wells Tung oil products for a recent project. I used the sealer and medium luster finish. I think the difference between the sealer and the others is percentage of tung oil vs thinner. Like any hand rubbed finish, it required hand rubbing. It "set up" quicker than other tung oil finishes I've used. This has pros and cons. The pro is that you can get on to your next coat sooner. The con is that if you don't get it rubbed out quickly enough it can get gooey and leave you with extra work. That can be corrected by applying more oil, but that's not what you set out to do.
Anyway, the finish was beautiful. I used it on some highly figured mahogany. It really popped the grain and produced incredible depth.
It was a little hard to work out of crannies.
As a side note, the part leftover in the can quickly polymerized, collapsing the can and leaving the remainder unusable which was a bummer considering its already rather lofty price tag. It either needs to be put in a smaller container or use one of those air depleting products like Bloxegen (more money).
Please don't get the idea that I'm down on it because of the cost.
If it's a really nice piece with pretty grain, I usually throw cost to the wind in the finishing phase, but at $30-$35/quart, it's not a budget finish.
I'm not sure how it (or any oil finish) would work out on closed grain woods like cherry and maple, perhaps someone else can comment on that. It sure looked great on mahogany.
*ChuckThanks for the info. Re: the storage issue, does Bloxygen really work?Keith
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