I just finished building a coffee table for our family room. I stained it to match another piece in the room. On the first piece I used Minwax wipe-on poly with very staisfactory results. On the coffee table I decided to use some water based poly from Rockler that was left over from a new front door. I applied four coats with a foam brush as recommended by the manufacturer. It looks awful. I tried rubbing it down with wax but that didn’t help. My question is can I apply regular wipe-on poly over the water based poly? If so, what is the best way to remove the wax. I realize that some sanding will be involved before applying the wipe-on product but am worried about the wax interfering with adhesion.
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Replies
An oil based poly will not stick to the water based. I suppose you could put a coat of shellac on first as shaellac sticks to anything and everything sticks to it. But is it were mine, I'd strip it and start again with the routine that worked for the other piece and fresh finish (no stuff froma half can that's benn sitting a round for a while, for example).
After you remove some of the wax, or most of it with thinners and a rag, go ahead and wet sand the piece starting with 400 wet or dry, wet with water and a dash of soap for lubrication . go all the way to 1000 . it goes quickly. If you like the look ,you can polish further, however if you don't like the color or depth you could probably make some minor adjustments with glazes and subsequent coats of Frenchy's thined shellac process.
I suspect you want the resistance to alcoholic drinks provided by poly.
I suggest that you get some General Polycrylic, water based poly, from Woodcraft. The stuff is a dream to apply, (I've tried about a dozen different brands) it levels nicely, dries quickly and sands out beautifully. Wow! Did I say all that?
But - don't use the foam thingy. Get a good synthetic brush from Homestead Finishes (Jeff Jewett)
Frosty
Waterborne finshes are not a good choice for something that may get wet.
While oil based polyurethane varnish WILL adhere to a waterborne acrylic finish, you need to prepare the existing finisn by first removing the wax and then preparing the surface. To remove the wax, wipe it down with mineral spirits and then wipe it dry with lots of paper towels. Do it twice. Prepare the surface by scuff sanding with 220 paper. Oil based poly will adhere just fine.
However, if the current finish looks lousy, I would strongly recommend you strip it completely. There is no garrantee that a coating of oil based varnish will greatly improve the appearence. Use a chemical stripper to remove what's on there now, resand and then, recoat with what you used before and are familier with.
As always, you should apply your planned finish to sample pieces from your project. That way you have no tears.
Interesting to know, Howie, that it WILL adhere. I admit I've never personally tried wipe on poly over acrylic poly, but I've sure had my share of acrylic latex over oil based paints (even if the latex "adheres" it is easily chipped off) and other adventures where oil based finishes resisted the plastic film of acrylic. I assumed the oil and water don't mix thing likely applied here too. Live and learn.
Howard has given good advice. If you want to go over the waterborne you can. One of the problems with waterborne finishes is they do not enhance the wood grain like other oil or solvent based finishes do (popping the grain). That may be why your are not happy with the way it looks. Using an oil based product over what you have will not have the same look as if it were on the bare wood. The wood is now sealed and the oil can not penetrate. Starting over may be your best option.
When re-coating 220-320 sanding is good. Finer is a waste of time. You want the surface abraded for a mechanical bond not polished. 600-4000 sanding is fine for rub out of final finish but not for between coats of a film finish.
Steve Nearman
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Furniture Restoration Service
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I am having trouble making a final dicision on how to go about finishing a cherry entertainment center I have recently completed. I would like to maintain the woods nateral beauty . What do you recommed?
Note: While I am a fairly acomplished wood worker I am limited when it comes to finishing. I have been thinking that a wipe on approch may be the answer. But a little confused about Shellac vs. Varnish, Poly. Please help.
Thank you
Amox
Use ammonia, not mineral spirits, to remove wax quickly. Waterborne poly protects from water equally as well as oil based poly.
Expert since 10 am.
>> Waterborne poly protects from water equally as well as oil based poly.That's not true. Waterborne acrylic is about equal to lacquer is resistance to water and water vapor. YOu can check with the Wood Handbook from the US Forest Service Forest Products Lab. You will not find any marine clear waterborne finishes just for that reason.Howie.........
we're talking about a coffee table for a family room, not about building boats or other extreme conditions.Expert since 10 am.
I was not commenting on whether the finish is appropriate for a family room coffee table but on your comment that waterborne acrylic is comparable in water resistance to oil based varnish. Oil based varnish is quite a bit more water and watervapor resistant than any one part waterborne acrylic finish.Personally, I would use an oil based varnish for a family room coffee table. Family room furniture tends to get more abuse like spills, wet water glasses and hot beverage damage than a living room item. But, almost any finish is fine if the furniture is cared for. If coasters, hot pads, placemats, etc are used and spills wiped up immediately. It's the requirements of the finish that dictate what finishs are "best".Howie.........
Water based poly is rarely my first choice of finishes, and I suspect you'd agree on that.
For furniture, there is no "quite a bit more" water resistant. It either is, or it isn't. Water based acrylic poly performs just fine in this application, that's one of the things it is designed to do.Expert since 10 am.
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