*
I am refinishing an exterior door on my 1920s-vintage house. Removing the old finish is no problem — the last series of owners did that by years of neglect. I’m planning to give it a couple of coats of Watco Danish Oil (my favorite finish for interior projects) and a couple of top coats of polyurethane exterior spar varnish. The oil finish is intended to penetrate and preserve and slightly color the weathered wood (my wife would like to preserve the weathered look, I would like to preserve the door…) The polyurethane top coat is designed for long-term weather protection — the door faces west and gets lots of sun, wind, and rain.
Am I crazy to use this approach?
Any possibility of of chemical incompatibility between the oil and polyurethane?
How long does the oil finish need to cure before applying polyurethane?
Any favorite brands of exterior polyurethane you can recommend?
By the way, the door is a softwood, appears to be Douglas fir.
Many thanks for any and all suggestions.
Replies
*
First, let me say as a longtime boat owner and maker of wood products for boats, that polyurethane varnish is a poor choice for exterior applications. UV rapidly attacks polyurethane and causes it to fail.
That said, a good quality marine spar varnish will work as well as anything. Be sure to get it from a marine supplier, not your local "big box". Brands like Pettit, Woolsey, Epifanes are what you should look for. To build a sufficient film thickness for the UV additive to work requires 5-6 coats. Be sure to refinish the inside of the door also and seal it top and bottom with whatever finish you use on the outside.
Finally, you will need ot some cleanup of the current surface. At minimum, I would recommend cleaning with a marine deck cleaner. Most finish manufacturers will recommend that their products be put on to a freshly sanded surface.
You can apply your varnish over an oil finish as long as the oil has completely cured. If it still has an odor, it is not fully cured.
*Thanks Howard -- I live near Lake Michigan so sources of marine varnish are plentiful.
*The UV protectants in spar varnish are meant only to help protect the *varnish* from breaking down, not to help the wood from being bleached out by the sun. Brightwork(woodwork) on boats are rejuvenated yearly to keep them looking new.
*Good point David. UV additives are intended to protect the finish, not the color of the wood and generally, annual maintenence is required.I always say, nothing is forever outdoors.
*Tamarack,Being a native Michigander, I am familiar with the climate. Having a fair amount of experience in the restorations of Chris-Crafts, I respectfully disagree, in part, with David and Howie.The UV blockers used by Interlux and Epifanes (can't speak for the other brands)i are formulated to prevent bleaching and discoloration of the wood in addition to the prevention of the finish breaking down. I suggest that you go to the provided links for more information:http://www.interlux.comhttp://www.epifanes.comIn answer to your questions; no you are not crazy in your approach. Though, IMHO, the use of oil is not necessary. If you do go that route, give it at least a couple of weeks to fully cure, depending on number of coats and humidities.I use both Interlux and Epifanes and have had excellent results over the years. They both have polyurethane formulations in high gloss for exterior use. If you don't like the high gloss look, use 600 grit silicon (wet) on the final coat for satin, 1200 or 1500 grit silicon (wet) for semi-gloss. You might also want to check the discussion that I started below on outdoor finishes that I started awhile back. Hope this helps.Dano
*Dano,Welcome back. Or were you never away? :)the rev
*Rev,Thank you, yes I was "away".Dano
*Thanks everyone. The door is about ready for the oil finish. The oil finish is intended to add color and depth more than a protective finish.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled