Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Sep 12, 2002 08:42am | #1

   Eddie -

   Have you done much turning before?

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   EdBejarano | Sep 13, 2002 07:48am | #5

   Yes. I have done some turning but not on long and thin spindles as would be the case here. I'm concerned about keeping the spindle stable and insuring that the cue remains stable without bowing. Being an amateur pool player as well an amateur woodworker, I have a keen interest on how a good cue is made. I'll try anything once. I would not attempt to make a single segment cue but would opt for a 2 section one. Thanks, Dennis.

1. 
   DennisS | Sep 13, 2002 10:45am | #7

   > ...I have done some turning but not on long and thin spindles

   The reason I asked is if you had more experience turning than I have (which is less than a year) you would probably know more about it than I do. It appears we're probably somewhere on the same wavelength.

   That being the case, you're right. Really long thin things like this will deform under the pressure of the tool. You would probably need a center steady thingie to stabalize the work.

   A friend brought in an older copy of FWW that had a description of such an appliance a guy submitted to the "Methods of working" column and won the L-N plane. It was fabricated from wood parts and in-line skate wheel bearings. I made one for my first lathe from 1/4" steel plate and in-line skate wheels. Mine has three wheels mounted on moveable fingers to adjust for different size work. It's designed for stabalizing deep hollow work rather than thin spindles but the principle is the same. I can send you some photos direct if you're interested.

   One technique I've seen illustrated is using the left hand (assuming you're right handed) wrapped under the tool rest and supporting the work on the side opposite the tool. Raffin says if your hand gets too hot, you're holding the piece too tight. I've supported some thin walled vessels while sanding and finishing but never while actually turning. Seems like it would take quite a bit of guts! (hehe)

   The other really difficult cutting thing (for me) is getting a really nice smooth finish 'off the tool'. It seems I have to do a lot of cheating and sand out tool ridges to the extreme. All my resource material implies that the best finish is achieved with a skew. That's the one tool that's escaped me thus far. One day it works like a charm. The next I can't avoid catches to save my soul. But when it's working, it is indeed a marvelous finish. But I don't think I'll quit my day job just yet.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 12, 2002 09:10am | #2

   Should be #59's for sale on eBay (can't have my copy -- I'm trying to build a complete set!).  You can post a want-ad here at Knots in the Issues For Sale/Wanted forum.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   Kell | Sep 12, 2002 08:41pm | #3

   Eddie,

   I'm a pool player in addition to my woodworking.  While turning pool cues is essentially just spindle turning, it is a highly specialized form of it.  It can be done on a typical lathe, provided there is a method for stabilizing the turning as it gets smaller and begins to whip.  (Don't ask me how I know this already. grin)

   You may want to go to Billiardsdigest.com, the Discussion Forum, and post the question there.  The forum has many custom cue makers who seem as willing to share their expertise as the folks on this forum.  They can direct you to supply houses and tool distributors, too.  Good luck!  The quality of custom cues is higher than it's ever been, some bringing prices upwards of $25,000 brand new and some classics going in the 7 figure range.

   Kell

1. 
   UncleDunc | Sep 13, 2002 06:16am | #4

   What are the differences between, say, a $1000 cue and a $25,000 cue?

1. 
   BenM | Sep 13, 2002 02:37pm | #8

   What are the differences between, say, a $1000 cue and a $25,000 cue?

   $24,000, of course.  Woodwork magazine did a profile on a cue maker 2 or 3 issues ago.  Not much info on how to make one but a lot of nice photos of his work.  The FWW article mentioned previously is also available in a Taunton book "Small Woodworking Projects", but is out of print.  You might still find it in bookstores.

2. 
   Kell | Sep 13, 2002 04:06pm | #10

   Uncle,

   There are  several schools of thoughts on this.  Some players feel there is no difference in the shooting capability of a cue that costs $200 and one that costs $1000.  Others feel there are minute differences across the spectrum.  My thinking is that it depends on the individual.  Just because I can't feel the difference doesn't mean it doesn't exist for someone else.  I prefer to use a cue that feels good to me and leave it at that.  I have tried a cue that sold for $2000 that I loved but I couldn't justify that cost because it wasn't that much better than the one I boght for $200.  It just wasn't ten times better.  BTW players talk about how a cue "hits" when they discuss them.  This is hard to describe because it's rather organic.  When you have a cue that feels right to you, it feels perfectly balanced and when it contacts the ball there is no vibration other than what you expect.  The feel and sound that you hear just seems correct to you.  Some of this is due to the tip, ferrule, joint and the weight, shape and taper of the shaft.  Evidently, some wood species have a different feel in that they have different resonances, much like tone woods in musical instruments.  (I haven't seen any scientific studies done on this but I do know that different woods sound much different in guitars that I've made. so it would make sense in a pool cue, too.)

   Once you get above about $1000 in price, it seems to boil down to decoration and inlay because most of that other stuff that I talked about above can be included at that price.  Some cues are absolutely works of art.  I saw one, at a local custom maker's shop, with inlaid civil war battle scenes done in scrimshaw.  (I live in Richmond VA where folks care a lot about that period!)  It went for $27,000!  There was an awful lot of work involved in creating it.  It really was a long thin museum.

   The rest of the thread about making one, I didn't see much I could add.  A steady rest is an absolute necessity for turning a cue on a standard lathe.  The article in Woodwork a couple of months ago was excellent.  As far as technique, it involves lots of practice with a very sharp skew or small block plane set for a very light cut.  Then it's on to polishing paper, rather than sandpaper, starting at 1000 grit and going up to 12000 grit.  (At that point, the shaft has an almost mesmerizing feel to it.  With no finish, it is amazingly reflective.)  Stick with maple for the shaft and make the butt out of the decorative stuff.  Good luck!

   Kell

   Edited 9/13/2002 9:37:21 AM ET by Kell

2. 
   EdBejarano | Sep 13, 2002 07:57am | #6

   Thanks for the info. I,too, am a poolplayer and woodworker. I have come to know the difference between good cues and bad ones. Unfortunately I can't afford the really good ones. My interest is more curiousity and

   I would not try to replicate say, a Meucci or Schoum (spelling?). But, like any woodworker, let's try it.

4. 
   rholland54 | Sep 13, 2002 02:46pm | #9

   There was a recent issue of Woodwork magazine that featured an article about cue making.