Replies

1. 
   user-200815 | Jun 17, 2007 09:11am | #1

   Could you be a bit more specific about what you ARE getting
   - long axis centerline not parallel to your reference face (the one the fence is placed on) - eg tilted -left or right end higher?
   - mortise width wider than it should be - but not by 6 or 10 mm the "mortise width" options are for?
   - mortise not square to the face it's cut into?
   - mortise location horizontally not where you think it should be when using the stop pins built into the face of the unit - or using the stops on the "outriggers"?

   Are you cutting the mortises with the fence horizontal and square to the cutter face or using the unit "standing up"

   Are you cutting a mortise into the face of a narrow board? If so, are you using the "screw it onto the bottom of the base of the unit" attachment to keep the cutter square to the face of the part? If the fence only has 1/2 to 3/4" to rest on it's easy to rock on the board's edge - and angle the mortise.

   When you plunge the cutter into the stock - are you gripping the unit back near the power cord or up closer to the on/off switch. I've got small hands, and even for me, if I grip the unit close to the on/off switch I have to move my grip back because the dust port gets in the way. Shifting your grip during the plunge cut can cause you to tilt the machine - and get a less than perfect mortise.

   If you don't consciously make the effort to keep the cutter face flush against the stock you can mess up a mortise because even being a little off of square to the surface to be mortised can mess up the mortise/ You wanted this
   | /
   -------- and cut this ------- or this -------
   | /

   Need more info please - but I suspect "operator error" rather
   than a misaligned tool - though that's always possible.

   Now don't get defensive please because I suggest the problem may be operator error. I can attest to the fact that there is no idiot proof machine. I, being a very accomplished idiot, can find a way to screw up the most foolproof things. I even have the ability to lose a lit flashlight - in a dark room.

   The DOMINO is a very versatile tool and isn't as simple as using a biscuit cutter. And because it appears to work like a biscuit cutter you may assume things that aren't in fact true. I thought the "stepped presets" white numbers were thedistance from fence to mortise centerline. They're NOT. They're the stock thickness that will center the mortise on the stock. HALF of the white numbers is the Fence to Mortise Centerline distance.

   There's a lot of options with the DOMINO and several are inter-related. Takes some familiarity with the tool to utilize the features/options to get the results you want.

   The manual that comes with the DOMINO - at least the ones sold here in the USA - -- SUCKS! Fortunately a couple of owners have done manuals which Festool is reviewing and may have released by now. I've put together some stuff for myself about the DOMINO you may find helpful. The links at the end of the Table of Content page will get you to the draft manuals that may come out soon.

   http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DOMINO/DOMINO_TableOfContent.html

   There's also a Festools Owners Group you can join to get help with the DOMINO. Plenty of owners/ users finding all kinds of things to do with the DOMINO.

   http://festoolownersgroup.com

   charlie b

1. 
   Moosewood | Jun 17, 2007 03:34pm | #2

   Wow! Thank you for your reply. The problem that I am encountering is verticle misalignment of the work pieces. I have no doubt that this is due to operator error. I have, however, noticed that with the base resting solidly on a flat surface and the fence aligned with the reference face of the work piece, that the fence sits at a slight angle relative to the face of the board. The fence is higher in back ( cutter end ) than it is at the front. Is this a concern? I have large hands and grip the unit near the on/off switch. I am not shifting my hands during the plunge. Would my accuracy improve if I shifted my hand to the back of the unit and simply pushed, thereby reducing the tendency to raise or lower the back of the unit while plunging?

   Thank you for your timely reply and information. I will look at the file you referenced.

    

   Rick

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 17, 2007 04:27pm | #3

   I had trouble attaching it here, but I have another manual for the Domino written by Rick Christopherson. If you send me an email, I will send it along to you. The manual is very well done, and I suspect it will help you puzzle out the solution to your problem.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   Moosewood | Jun 17, 2007 06:21pm | #4

   I am sory but I did not understand what you had difficulty attaching. Would you be able to clarify your last post? My e-mail is [email protected].

    

   Thank you for your response.

   Rick

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 17, 2007 06:27pm | #5

   RC's manual, which is a simple .pdf file. It is just easier for me to attach it to an email, which I already did (to the email address you provided).********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   user-200815 | Jun 17, 2007 08:03pm | #6

   So, with the fence angle "set to 90 degrees" to the cutter face,
   but the angle is actually less than 90? That's easy to check.Are you sure the edge of the stock is square tothe face you're referencing off of - or is it less than 90s to the reference face?If the stock isn't milled "four square" and FLAT it doesn't matter how you make your joints, they won't fit properly. The old line "you can't make rectangles out of trapezoids" makes the point for why proper stock prep is so important.I find that when I ASSUME something, rather than checking to verify that the assumption is true - I'm occassionally - WRONG!
   Board not flat, faces not parallel, edges not square to the face, ends not cut square to a reference edge, . . .Re: where you grip the "barrel / handle" of the DOMINO
   The farther back towards the power cord connection, the greater the affect of a little downward or upward movement has on the cutter end. Which is why the handle on the top of the fence is so nice and big. If you grab it and apply firm downward pressure, the fence will stay on the reference face - assuming it isn't narrow.Does the problem happen primarily when mortising into the side of a narrow board (not much surface for the fence to be pressed down onto)?charlie b

1. 
   Moosewood | Jun 18, 2007 02:26pm | #12

   Thank you for your additional thoughts. The wood is properly dimensioned. I noticed yesterday that when using the domino that in keeping firm downward pressure on the forward handle that I was actually tensing my rear arm and raising the rear of The Domino. This is going to take some practice.

    

   Rick

2. 
   steveky | Jun 18, 2007 05:50am | #9

   Charlie you seem to be informed about the Feestool Domino. I just posted the question below on this sight. Would you have an answer to my inquiry?I believe I’ve read on this sight that Feestool products will only work with Feestool dust collection systems (their hoses, etc.). Is this true and if so is it possible to simply get a Feestool hose and adapt it to a regular vacuum system (2 1/2” or 4”)?

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 18, 2007 08:18am | #10

   The answer is no .... but read my complete answer in the thread you started.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   user-200815 | Jun 18, 2007 12:18pm | #11

   I believe Festool has at least TWO different "dust extractor" hoses. The one for the Euro market has the power cord built into it which our OSHA (or it could be Underwriters Laboratory) won't allow (can't see if the insulation is dmaged inside the hose).The one I got with the CT22 dust extractor has diameters as followstool end
   outside diameter 1 27/64 inches (36mm)
   inside diameter 1 inch (25mm)dust extractor end
   outside diameter 2 1/4" (about 57.5mm)
   inside diameter 2.06" (about 52mm)on the DOMINO and the Festool Saber Saw
   outside diameter 1.09"I do know that the Festool hose I have fits over the smallest diameter part of my Dewalt random orbital sanders- and works pretty good - IF you duct tape it to the tool - it pops off otherwise while in use.Now having played with dust collector hoses, blast gates and dust collector "piping" I'm familiar with all the diameter mismatches that are so much fun to get around. I imagine it's a similar thing with vacuum cleaner hoses and fittings. But I'm
   sure you could find, or make something that will join to the Festool tools.As for "must use Festool's dust extractor - and hose" - with the DOMINO you almost have to have some way of getting the copius quantities of dust,small chips out of the mortise and away from the cutter. You could probably just shake out the dust between cuts - but that would be kind of inconvenient - though cheaper than buying the Festool unit - or the Fein.Hope this answers your question. If not, ask with specifics and I'll try and answer.charlie b

3. 
   DickL | Jun 18, 2007 08:35pm | #15

   I use a Festool hose with my Fein vac - fits perfectly. Item #: 452877.

1. 
   steveky | Jun 19, 2007 12:48am | #16

   I'm going to order that exact hose, and it's not cheap. I figure as long as it fits well on the Feestool, I can figure out a way to adapt it to my vacuum. I was concerned because I had read on this sight that Feestool products would only fit Feestool vacuums, so I'll make sure I have a Feestool hose. And as good as Feestool is, a vacuum is a vacuum and sucking up dirt was perfected a long time ago with cheaper machines.

1. 
   dgreen | Jun 19, 2007 04:06am | #17

   Saying all vacuums are the same is like saying all screwdrivers are the same. You need to do a little more homrwork concerning noise levels, filtration and cooling and suction.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

2. 
   steveky | Jun 19, 2007 04:16am | #18

   Sorry I insulted you by saying a vacuum is a vacuum. I forgot there are still Electrolux salesmen in the world.

3. 
   dgreen | Jun 19, 2007 05:07am | #19

   You are obviously too stupid to help. Go buy whatever cheap piece of loud poorly built poorly filtered non bypassed piece of crap you can find at the dollar store. Sorry I wasted my time with you.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

4. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 19, 2007 07:01am | #20

   He's right; if you have ever been forced to endure a "screamer" like a Sears or Ridgid, you will appreciate the quieter vacs -- especially if you are using them for DC with a tool.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   Hastings | Jun 17, 2007 08:38pm | #7

   Moose:

   My first applications of the Domino were less than stellar. My machine needed minor adjustments. There are three recommended in the manuals that Charlie has already suggested. From memory, you need to make sure your sight gauge is properly aligned (mine wasn't). The fence is perfectly parallel to the base (use two squares (again mine needed a tweak). And third, make sure the two stops are equidistant.

   One common problem is thinking you are referencing from the top of the work while the Domino is resting on the bench. Make sure your work overhangs the bench so there can be no room for doubt.

   After I did these things, all worked well. I have made a number of face frames and all came out perfectly.

   Finally, take your time until you get really familiar with the tool. You will soon "master" it.

   Regards,

   Hastings

1. 
   RickChristopherson | Jun 18, 2007 05:38am | #8

   Domino is a very precise tool, and as a result, even minor errors in setup become noticeable in the joint. Two of the most common problems that new users encounter is not securing the workpiece firmly, and not holding Domino firmly to the workpiece.The reason why securing the workpiece is so important is because you don’t have enough hands to firmly hold Domino while also trying to control the workpiece. When I use to use a biscuit joiner, I was in the habit of holding the joiner and the workpiece by hand. I learned with Domino that I can’t do this and expect good results. As soon as I used some bench dogs to help control the workpiece, I found I could maintain proper control over Domino.The other issue is to make sure the fence is held firmly to the top of the workpiece without rocking. This can be a significant issue with narrow pieces regardless whether it is an end-plunge or a side-plunge.For others reading this that are curious about the manual that was mentioned previously, it is downloadable at one of my websites (it looks like Festool, but it is mine):
   http://festool.home.att.net/

2. 
   Moosewood | Jun 18, 2007 02:31pm | #13

   Dear Hastings,

   The information which you provided was very helpful. I was unable to find any reference in the manual for adjustment of the fence parallel to the base. Your observation about referencing the work piece off the fence makes sense, as jointing 3/4" stock, while using the base to reference the mortice places the mortice closer to the show face than I would like to see.

   Again, thanks for your thoughts.

    

   Rick

3. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jun 18, 2007 06:29pm | #14

   Moosewood,
   The Domino has been the subject of several hundred posts in the Festool Owners Group. People have been discussing adjustments, as well as creative project ideas. Some of these ideas are truly amazing.

   If you're interested, feel free to join the forum. It's a customer-driven, non-commercial site.

   Here's the address:
   http://www.festoolownersgroup.com

   Thanks,
   Matthew