Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jul 23, 2009 08:07pm | #1

   I agree the instruction booklet could be better written. As-is, you have to jump back and forth between sections to get it down.

   Pay attention to the comments in the instructions about optimal stock width. Since the jig produces joints with set intervals, precise stock width is essential for symmetrical placement of the cuts. Measuring the offset needs to be done carefully, too, if the pieces are going to align properly.

   Are you doing through dovetails, or half-blind?

2. 
   spotcheck | Jul 26, 2009 05:14pm | #2

   Recently got one.  Picked up a 1x8 - 10' pine board, cut it to 8" pieces, and started learning.  The instruciton manual is a  bit confusing as you noted.  Even worse - there is a "Supplementary Instruciton Manual" that did not come with the tool (and I didn't notice any reference to it).  FOund out about it from P-C tech service when I asked a question I couldn't answer.  Go on-line to download.

   One Warning - On my 3d consecutive failed joint, I realized it was not pilot error.  Got out my squares and gauges.  The main steel box (that is formed to make the top and front) was out of square.  Don't toss the shipping box just yet - I had to send mine back for a replacement.

    

    

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jul 26, 2009 05:53pm | #3

   The supplemental manual available online is really just for "advanced" joints, and doesn't add anything, as far as I could tell, to making "basic" joints.You raise a good point about squareness, though. If the jig was damaged, and out of square (between the face and horizontal platforms), the resulting joints won't be square, either. Similarly, the ends of the boards being jointed need to be precisely square, as well, and corresponding sides need to be exactly the same length. Obviously, all sides of a box need to be exactly the same width, too. For through dovetails with the 4212, the "Eureka" moment for me came with the realization that stock width needs to conform to the "optimal" widths mentioned in the manual, so the joints are precisely symmetrical. Otherwise, you have to fiddle with adjusting the offset.Marking the pieces, both as to position (front, back, left side, right side) and surface orientation (inside, outside) is important, too, of course. I'm still waiting for darylr to indicate which type of DT (through or half-blind) he's working on.

1. 
   spotcheck | Jul 26, 2009 08:43pm | #6

   Agree with all your points and those made by webby in the subsequent post.  I will say, though, that even with the Supplement focused on advanced topics, as I read through it, I got a better understanding of how to use the jig for basic joinery.

   I will add two things

   After I "got it", it is pretty easy to use.  (your Eureka moment happened here also).

   Also, (might have made this comment before in a different thread) The WMH acquisitions activity has far outpaced the ability of their customer service and tech support to keep up.  Found this to be true on P-C, Powermatic, and Dewalt brands (but the Powermatic people are definitley the best of the group).  From the outside looking in, seems like a classic B-school case study, where you consolidate an industry and gain yardage by combining overhead functions and cut costs.  Feel I am kinda on my own these days.

3. 
   webby | Jul 26, 2009 06:27pm | #4

   Like another poster said just get alot of cheap wood and practice.

   The manual is a bit confusing the wood placement section is in the front then you have to flip to whatever DT operation you are doing. Wood placement procedures are almost the same for thru DT and half blind DT's but not for sliding DT's.

   I have the 4212 and have pretty good luck with it. Having two routers IMO is almost a must for thru dovetailing, it makes set up and cutting test peices alot easier. Set up one router with the dt bit and the other with the straight. It helps for fine tuning later. Also it really helps to have very square cuts and pretty flat stock. Cupped stock makes it harder.

   I usually set up some scrap stock for a test but if you cut alot of the same joints in the same thickness material it should remain pretty close.

   Stock placement is kind of a juggling act.  Set the same thickness scrap in the top and tighten it down. Push the template down firmly and tighten it. Insert the good stock up tight to the template, and splitting the fingers of the template. Clamp this so it doesn't fall, then position the side guide.

   This run down I am doing from memory so I am a little fuzzy but for thru DT's basically you:

   Cut the tails first:

   Set your scrap stock horizontally in the jig, and position your good stock vertically. Being careful to press down on the template making sure that the  stock is fully in contact with the template. Tighten the template down. Split the distance on the fingers of the template with the stock, which I just do visually. I set the black spacer guide with the allen wrench making sure that it is square to the board and that the board is square to the template. Sight down the top and align the score on the template with the edges of where the good and scrap stock intersect, Set the depth on the router and route.

   To cut the pins:

   flip the template around it should still be pretty close in alignment if you are careful loosening the knobs. Insert your other stock and make sure it sets in the jig well, tight  to the underside of the template and square with the stop. Now route.

   Cutting the pins is where you make the adjustments if the joint is too tight, too tight is better than too loose, because you cant put wood back on that you have cut off. Hopefully the joint will be a bit tight. If it is moving the template one direction or the other, I forget which,  I think it is away from you , will allow you to fine tune and take aff a slight amount more, till you acheive a snug fit. This is where having two routers helps because you are not loosing time and increasing frustration by haveing to change bits.

   So in summary, you set your stock placement, and router depth of cut. Cut your tails, flip the template, insert other stock, cut the pins-make adjustments for fit at this stage, then assemble.

   Like I said mine works pretty well, but I am also bad about not paying attention to optimal board widths for pin placement, i.e. in 1/4's of an inch I think. I also tend to leave the pins a little long for sanding or planing.

   Also, this jig is so irregularly shaped that I made an elevated base for it to sit on, which also gave me room for a drawer in the back to store the collars and wrenches.

   Hope this helps, gotta run.

   Webby 

    

   
   

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   Edited 7/26/2009 11:37 am ET by webby

   
1. 
   Michael503 | Jul 26, 2009 08:07pm | #5

   I like the box!
   I have one of these and it too was out of square,a not uncommon problem with bent metal. I just shimmed mine with some tape.

1. 
   webby | Jul 26, 2009 08:50pm | #7

   Thanks.Webby