Porter-Cable Dovetail Jig settings
michaeltooze
| Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on
I have recently bought a Porter-Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig. The manual states that the jig depth measure should be set 3/8 inch below the template (in its lowest position). I can’t understand this as the template is approx. 1/4 inch thick and I would have expected the depth measure should be set to around 1/4 inch to compensate for the thickness of the template. At 3/8 inch, the dovetails I tested were proud by about the difference. Am I doing something wrong or have the templates on this unit been made thinner but the manual not updated??
Replies
I'm not sure I totally understand your questions but, maybe can offer a few pointers to help you work it out:
Those instructions can be confusing. So, read carefully and be sure you are reading the correct directions for the type of joint you are trying to cut; through dovetail, half-blind dovetail, or box joint. The process for each is different. It is easy to read one while thinking about the other.
The thickness of the templates has not changed and the directions would be the same if they had. The reference surface for depth of cut is the bottom of the template. No cutting action takes place above that plane.
Once you think you understand, make lots of test cuts and experiment with adjusting your settings. Sometimes things can be counter intuitive.
the 3/8 inch space is correct. I measure with a caliper 5/8 inch from the top of the aluminum jig to the top of the adjustable router bit stop and it should/will work out fine. Yes, make sure you read the correct instructions for the correct jig plate to get the joint that you want.
Larry
As bilyo pointed out, this measurement is not true of all the templates. The 4211 template, which is for half blind dovetails is one size while the 4213 for through dovetails and box joints has 3 depth stops which are all different depths. They are all factory set and no adjusting is required.
Thanks for all your comments. I've no problem with the 3/8ths depth for half blind dovetails but the through dovetails are quite proud using this depth. Measuring from the top of the template as Larry mentioned should read 5/8ths inch, i.e. including the template thickness. However, I've been using a depth of 13mm from the top of the template which approximates to only half and inch and this has given me fairly good standard through dovetails without being excessively proud on either edge. I'm not sure why though! Trimming the excess off is no problem but it also takes away from the size of the final piece and some measurements need to be exact. Thanks, Michael
Michael, keep in mind that for the 4213 template there is a fixed stop that is attached to the template (for half blind dovetails) and there’s one that’s attached to the jig itself (for through dovetails). The one attached to the jig is the one you need for through dovetails. You’ll need to measure that one from the base of where the stop rests because the measurement from the stop to the top of the template will vary based on the thickness of the stock. When I measured mine from the base to the top of the stop it measured 17mm. I hope this is not confusing and I hope this helps. I attached a picture of the measurement for reference.
I'm still not 100% with this as I've successfully used the through dovetail template and also the box template on a smaller setting than the 3/8 ths recommendation. If I lowered the guide to 3/8 ths I would have an excess to trim off after completion??
Michael, set the depth stop at 17mm from base. This depth stop should be factory set and shouldn’t be moved. After you do that watch this video: https://youtu.be/RzgnOvu9afU
Nice video for comedy and detailed instruction here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37wzUGaYqDw, even to the point of speaking to centering the router base. So many people think this is centered out of the box and it can cause frustration. Anyway, I noted you used 1/2" Baltic birch and mentioned a climb cut to reduce tear-out. While this jig is capable of using 1/2" stock, it can be a pain. Setting it up perfectly, the router bit will not touch tailboard as to perform a climb cut. 9/16" or 5/8" or larger it will, but you cannot adjust the template enough to get that climb cut with 1/2" material. I also could not get a good look at your sides, but it looks like the router bit did not, or just barely hit the tails on the inside of the dovetail. This is not an issue for the actual dovetail or integrity, but with 1/2" stock, you do not get the full cut. I also noticed you did have to tear out on the right side of the pinboard. Given the quality of this video and the comments you make, my guess is you didn't care because this was instructional and a box for your jig. For everyone else, this is an easy fix by adding a small scrap piece on the right side of the pinboard (top). Additionally, with the router bit unable to touch the tail side, you can eliminate tear out by putting in a scrap piece on the face of the tail so that your piece in effect is twice as thick. You have to really pay attention to securing the tail, but this protects the face from tear out, so once you have this and the side piece on the pinboard, then you will have zero tearout anywhere. Again, when you move to 5/8" or more, the climb cut does its job, so it is much easier to deal with. BTW, this is for baltic birch like you used, as hardwood tends to handle this much better. Great video though.
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