I was routing a profile on my table the other day, and for several reasons, I opted to climb cut. Long story short: The bit grabbed the stock and threw it into the wall, leaving a nice hole with the cutter’s profile.
I was aware this could happen, and I had my hands anchored to the table, but the grain prevented me from going the other way. I find that I often have to climb cut to get the best possible cut.
Can I do this with a power feeder? I’ve never used one, and all the threads are about using them on shapers and jointers and saws. If I attach a feeder such that it feeds the stock into the bit to climb cut, will this work?
Replies
Sounds to me like you were taking one pass to cut the complete profile.
Wouldn't it work better (all around) if you took multiple passes? If you're taking light cuts, I don't think a climb cut would be as "dangerous", and the end result would be a better finish ... less possibility of tear out, etc.
As to your question about a power feeder, it's my gut reaction that these are more for the really powerful tools like power saws and shapers. Never heard of one being used with a router, but then again I'm not a professional.
John
Yes, you can use one on a router table....one of the small ones will do fine. I've seen it done, never bothered myself; I've done a lot of climbcutting on a router, never lost control of a piece though, except maybe very small ones.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S
I was trying to make multiple passes. I was trying to get the best combination of speed, cut quality, and safety. I think I could take really light cuts, but I know I'll be tempted and get bolder with each pass.
Hi TUFENHUNDEL,
A power feeder or stock feeder holds the stock down and against the fence at the same time, eliminating chatter. Most power feeders do have a reverse feed mode . However if you feel the need to climb cut it is probably because you are experiencing tearout or some other adverse results . I would have to agree with johnhardy , multiple passes would be worth a try.When I climb cut with a hand held router I generally take a light pass or two then finish the full cut in the normal feed direction. Honestly I can't remember climb cutting on the router table. It has to be hard to hold on to a molding strip or the likes on the table, I think that is what happened , too big of a bite and not much to hold on to.
good luck dusty
I've been considering a feeder for a while myself, for the simple reason that they are cheaper than fingers. Sunhill (http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/products/powerfeeders/af32.asp) seems to have very reasonable prices, but one thing to consider is the raw weight of the thing. Even the small ones are near 80lbs. My Makita planer is less than that, so my question with a router table is where and how will you mount it? Will it make the router table unstable being that top heavy? Just something to consider.
John
John:
You bring up a very good point regarding the weight of a feeder. I think I'll have to McGyver something together. I am seriously thinking of a contraption like a crank operated feeder....come to think of it, a manual feeder..ha..ha.
I am thinking of something with wheels that'll hold down the stock, then I can crank it, and the gears will reduce the feed down to something optimal, plus lock the stock from slipping...yeah, after I clear my list of projects...
Oh, I think that a feeder is the way to go and as you know, thrown peices of wood are no joke. I was just pointing out that you may have to bolt your table to the floor or attatch the table to a wall or something to keep it from tipping.
Thanks!
John
I would never climb cut with a power feeder, but do what you want.
What you need is enough force/power to move the work piece in the direction you want against the force/power of the router.
It is unlikely that taking "small cuts" with a router bit will prevent the work piece from tipping or rapidly feeding resulting in the "small cuts" becoming "large cuts."
What you need to do is handle just large pieces of material. The mass and leverage you gain with large pieces helps to control problems.
>> I would never climb cut with a power feeder ...
Why not? If climb cutting is what it takes to get an acceptable finish, and a power feeder allows you to do an otherwise unsafe operation safely, what's the objection?
The first article about power feeders I ever read was in FWW, and devoted quite a bit of space to safe climb cutting with a power feeder.
I've even contemplated setting up a planer with two power feeders, one each on the infeed and outfeed sides, so I could do climb cutting.
I used to be a tool maker. I know all about climb cutting.
Climb cutting is simply asking for problems I don't need:
Let's see now.
Climb cutting pulls the wood through. The feather boards are set to pull the wood through. The power feed is set to pull the wood through.
When it goes, it goes real fast.
Whatever. Have you gotten rid of all your power tools? Using any power tool is asking for problems you don't need, since you can do any operation manually, and with a lot less noise and dust, besides.
14" band saw, 10" table saw, 4"x18" thickness sander, 2 routers, 1 1"x30" belt sander, 8" drill press.
100 razor blades, 100 utility knife blades, 6 chisels.
I build $1000 Queen Anne tables, and $20000 wood kayaks.
I find that people who error on the side of safety have more fingers.
Climb cutting is a standard procedure with a power feeder.
Yup...cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S
I climb cut with the Sunhill 1/4hp PF when using router bits, but I'm using a shaper with a router collet so the weight of the PF is not a problem.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled