Hey guys,
It’s my first time on the forum, so great to meet you all! I’m Niels Witlox and I am a starting woodworker and student from the Netherlands (Europe). I’m reaching out to you for some advice.
Now I think the answer to my question is: no, but I want to be sure. Here it goes:
Can 18V cordless circular saws cut true hardwoods?
I know cordless circular saws are less powerful than corded ones, but I would really like a cordless one for some reasons. For one, Dewalt newer circular saws all seem to be cordless ones. The corded ones available here look quite old and don’t come in the T-stak boxes. Wich bothers me. I don’t really need a cordless circular saw since I’m working in a shop with power. But I have cut into my circular cable once, that wasn’t very smart. Apart from that, a cordless saw is just cool, that would be the only practical reason I would wat a cordless machine.
I would really appreciate it if you guys could give me an answer to my primary question: can 18-volt cordless saws cut true hardwoods?
Then some advice on what you would do in my situation is also welcome.
I want to thank you sincerely in advance,
Niels Witlox
Replies
I have the DEWALT DCS391 circular saw. It uses 20 volt max batteries and has a 6.5 inch blade. I think these same batteries are called 18 volt in the E.U. due to regulations. I've used it for baltic birch plywood (18mm), 2x construction lumber and 1 inch thick solid oak with no problems.
The big advantage of cordless for me is being able to take the saw with me when I buy lumber. I can cut oversize pieces so they better fit in my truck.
DeWalt makes a more powerful cordless saw that takes 7.25 inch blades but I have no experience with it.
Mike
I've got a Ryobi 18v that's about 10 years old. I can cut one sheet of plywood before the battery dies. I can cross cut most wood with no problem, but I wouldn't try ripping with it.
I hope the new circular saws are better, but I have no experience with them.
Hi Mike,
Great to hear! thank you for sharing your experiences. About the cut on the solid hardwood: did it leave a nice finish or was it all burned and that?
Niels
Hi user-2741987,
I am planning on buying the DEWALT DCS570NT (a much newer and probably a little more expensive saw). So I hope I won't have the same problem as you have.
Niels
I keep a sharp blade on it so there is no burning but it's not a furniture quality cut. There might be blades available with more teeth that will give smoother cuts.
I have a Milwaukee 7-1/4 cordless, and I can't tell the difference in power between it and a corded saw. I can work most of the day with it on a 5 amp hour battery.
Quality of cut has nothing to do with the power source. The only thing that matters is the particular blade, and how sharp it is. The blade doesn't care what's spinning it.
A corded saw will last forever. "Cool" is not a good reason to choose a tool. A battery saw will bog down in thicker stock. "Will it cut hardwood" is only half a question.
_MJ_
Modern cordless saws such the DeWalt Flex fuel will match corded tools in power and are simply amazing. While it could be true that you might get a few more years of life out of a corded tool that remains to be seen. And the freedom of not having a cord is worth the tradeoff. We have all had cuts get ruined from cords hanging up or be just a little short or worse yet cut cords while sawing so for me it's a no Brainer, cordless all the way.
Now while power is not an issue, no portable saw, corded or cordless, will provide the quality of cut of a well tuned tablesaw. Blade changing would be required, crosscut and rip blades will outperform any combination blade, especially in thicker material. If you intend to rip hardwood and for longer cuts I recommend wedging the kerf to prevent it from closing and pinching the blade, but if you are willing to do that you you should be able to get serviceable cuts from a DeWalt Flex Fuel or equivalent.
John, thanks for your input! Haven't thought much about the blade since my choice right now is what circular saw I should get. I was afraid that if the cordless model did not have enough power that it would slow down and burn the wood. But thank you for your reply, these are some information and opinions I can work with!
Niels
Dear MJ, thank you for your input. I see strong opinions on this topic. But I think you're right, cordless tools are awesome. Unless their underpowered, which I was afraid for with a circular saw.
Now u mention the DeWalt flex-fuel. But these saws are out of my budget. Do you think DeWalt xr would do a great job too?
Niels
Neils_Wilcox
The new 20V Max XR will provide very similar performance with a 5 hr battery of you can't swing the Flex. Primarily you lose a little in the way of rpms and runtime.
Think about the blade first. There are more options in some blade sizes than others. If you choose a size with limited options, it will restrict what the saw can do.
Whilst blade quality is certainly important, it's not the only factor affecting quality of cut in a circular saw. The quality of the motor bearings and the arbor also add to, or subtract from, the quality of the cut. So does the vibration of the saw as a unit; and the quality of the plate & fence in a portable circular saw.
Given the high cost of a high quality circular saw of large power and blade diameter "to cut hardwoods" (I presume you mean, of the thicker sort a mains-power saw can cut) you will be paying a large extra wodge of cash for the portable saw that's functionally equivalent to a mains-powered saw of similar spec. If you want this saw just to be "cool" ......
..... Well, it might be better to spend it on a fancy beard trim, a nice pony tail band and a large frame saw you make yourself. :-)
Lataxe
Lat_axe IMO cordless circular saws offer much more than just being cool and are worth every penny you pay. After almost 40 yrs in home improvement I consider myself somewhat of an expert in there use. They offer unparalleled convenience, and safety. There's no need to find an outlet if working outside, no long extension cords stretched across the job site creating trip hazards, no cords to hangup at a critical time in the cut, and last but not least, no cord to slice through inadvertently as you focus on the cut.
As for blades definitely stick to a saw like the premium DeWalts that have 7¼" blades which will get you the best selection of quality blades.
Esch,
I don't disparage battery-powered circular saws but was merely pointing out their extra cost (often a large extra cost) to obtain a good quality item with lots of power sufficient for "cut(ting) true hardwoods". (I presume this is the OP's phrase meaning "for thick and tough timbers").
The OP says he works in a place with mains power, not off site where portable battery powered tools would, as you say, be a boon. He wants this battery saw because it would be "cool". He specifically states: "I don’t really need a cordless circular saw". I was responding to this statement of requirements rather than finding fault (other than the cost) with portable saws.
In addition, all saws need to achieve a certain build quality to produce the clean cuts the OP (and everyone else making furniture) presumably wants. Blade choice is not the only factor, so I thought I'd mention that. High build quality generally means higher cost; doubly so for portable battery tools, I suspect.
Lataxe
Esch and Lataxe,
Message for u both: You guys are both right. Latex in that I don't necessarily need the tool to bo cordless. And Esch in that a cordless tool is more convenient, even in a workshop with power. A cordless tool with the same blade diameter (DEWALT DCS570NT) as a corded one is only €44 more expensive than the corded tool (DEWALT DWE576K). Aside from battery or cord powered, the cordless model is much newer. It covers a newer design, which matches with my other tools. And yes Lataxe, this is important for a hobby woodworker like me. But also practical features like the T-stak box. But most innovative, the blade brake. These features, for me, already make the €44 difference negligible. So the price difference is settled here, right?
Now back to corded or cordless. We will all agree that cordless tools are more practical, even in a workshop with power. You don't have tho think about extension cables, ever. Your cable doesn't get stuck on something while cutting. And you'll never cut into your cable (like I already did). Also, I won't be running out of battery, believe me. So practical points definitely go-to cordless.
So the only reason why I would go for the corded version instead of the cordless one would be if it's not powerful enough to cut through hardwoods. Or thick though timber as Esch calls it. I'm reading many comments on that cordless circular saws will do that. So that means I should go for cordless right? and then I'm specifically talking about choosing between the two models I've mentioned above.
The only thing that could change things is that I could get a track on the corded model. then it will be the same price as the core model, but then with a 1,5m long track. The cordless model does not have the ability to run on a track without aftermarket attachments.
I hope this message will lead to my final decision.
But whatever comes out of it, I appreciate all of you who commented and share your knowledge, experience and opinion.
Niels
Lat_axe
I fully understand your position, but like drills, once you've used a quality cordless circular saw, I doubt very much you would reach for a corded one very often. I've 3 quality corded drills that haven't been out of their boxes in years. Cordless tools just have so much to offer. I don't know often you use portable saws but I would bet that if you used them frequently you would feel the same about a DeWalt Flex circular saw its an amazing tool and will do anything a corded tool will do with a whole lot less headaches.
Thank you guys,
I think I'm going for the cordless DEWALT DCS570NT instead of the corded DEWALT DWE576K. Because Latax says cordless will have enough power.
Esch, You're right too, but its not only about corded or cordless. the cordless version is only €44 more expensive than the corded version. But the cord is not the only difference. The cordless model is a much newer model, it offers a T stack box, the design is newer and matches my other tools, and yes, for a hobby woodworker like me that matters. But most importantly is the blade brake, I think I'll like that a lot.
Now there is one more difference, a rather big one. The corded version offers a shoe compatible with a track, so its a track saw in fact. The cordless version doesn't. I can get the corded version + a 1,5-meter track for the same price as the cordless version without any track. I am skilled enough to just use a straight edge. But a track is obviously more convenient.
All things considered, if the cordless version is powerful, I will like the experience better, and that is important for me since I am a hobby woodworker.
Niels
Esch,
I make furniture in a one car garage (previously a large wooden shed) using corded tools except for some 12V drill-drivers. Even those are used only for drilling that need not be too accurate, as a small mains-powered drill press (that can also turn large forstner bits) is used in preference.
In Blighty the standard household electric power is 220=240V. Most of my corded tools are connected via a 16A socket to a circuit dedicated to the workshop. My main power tools (sliding carriage CS, planer-thicknesser, router table and giant dust extractor) are between 2.5 and 4HP, with no problem.
All my other portable power tools are corded - but generally used only in the shed/garage. Mostly it's sanders and the Dominos. Most work is done with a planer-thicknesser and sliding carriage table saw then hand tools. Occasionally the router table or the Woodrat have an outing, each having 3HP routers in them driven through that 16A supply along with the 3HP dust extractor.
There is a small (6" blade) portable corded circular saw that I use for cutting up a sheet of plywood or blockboard - but only because the small area of the garage workshop doesn't (unlike the former shed) allow me to get the full sheet on to my tablesaw. I have to leave the extension tables folded down as the garage is too small to have all the tablesaw facilities fully deployed.
Doing a (rare) cut-up of a full sheet of plywood isn't an issue with the corded saw. I do it on the garage forecourt, using two workmates and a half sheet "table" on top. I run the corded CS against a straight edge clamped over the sheet.
********
I can easily see that battery tools of high quality and power would be very useful to one who works a lot off-site and/or cuts up a great deal of sheet goods. But that's not my style of woodworking and, I suspect, not that of the OP either.
Lataxe
My first cordless circular saw was a Dewalt, way back. 18v nicads. I forget the blade diameter -- maybe 4-1/2 inches, something like that. I think there was one blade in that diameter. I could make one or two rip cuts on plywood before the battery died. Blech.
My 7-1/4 Milwaukee can take any blade my corded Bosch and Porter Cable can, cut just as smooth as either of those saws, and run mist of the day on one battery. The PC, a left hander, hasn't been out of the case in years now. The Bosch has a diamond blade living in it, and I only use it on concrete. Likewise, my corded Supersawzall has not been out of the case for years either. The cordless versions are at least as good at their jobs as those with cords, if not better. The last corded portable tool I used was an SDS Max rotary hammer for putting in some Lally column footings. I leave out big routers, which I only use as a stationary tool anyway.
Furniture, built-in, carpentry, it doesn't matter. Cordless tools are just as good, and far more convenient.
Esch5995; Your experiences are your own, and offering them to the OP as we all have is a generous act. What use is shouting down the responses of others? My reply was to his question, and took into account the parameters of that question, nothing more.
Niels-Witlox; I never mentioned a Dewalt saw, I hope you got the info you need from the others.
_MJ_ no offense was intended, but you did make a statement that I know for a fact is wrong. You had said "a battery saw will bog down in thicker stock" which I know from personal experience to be untrue. I've used my DeWalt Flex to cut 8/4 Hard Maple, Oak and even Hickory on many occasions without the slightest hesitation. The Hardwood dealer I purchase from uses a cordless Milwaukee to rough cut all types of thick stock. It's a simple fact that the quality of cordless tools has grown leaps and bounds over the last 5-10 years to the point that a corded tool is the oddity on a job site today not the norm.
And on the additional point, I think many woodworkers would agree with me that we have all bought at least one tool because we thought it was "cool".
Again I never meant to offend but we all must guard against offering opinion as fact something we can all be guilty of at times.
A battery saw WILL at some point bog down in thicker stock. I stand by my statement and my experience with no judgement of yours.
The OP is a beginner and student, how many batteries do you think he can afford? If he is ripping thick hardwood, a corded saw, which will do everything a BP saw will do in a powered shop except need to be recharged, is (to me) the clear choice.
What is being used on jobsites has nothing to do with it. Having an extra 10 batteries in the truck is likely not yet is the cards for our young friend.
Thank you guys!
I'm sorry I didn't reply yesterday, for some reason I couldn't send my messages. I typed long messages but they just disappeared. I hope this one won't.
I want to thank you all for sharing your experiences and opinions. There seems to be a lot of debate about this topic which I understand. I think both sides have a point. I'm still can't decide. I think cordless is better en every aspect. Except for power of course. But unfortunately, no one can give me solid proof that an 18V cordless circular saw can cut true hardwoods. In a last attempt, I emailed DeWalt customer service. But I don't think it will help much. So my plan of attack will be this: If I can find solid proof that the DeWalt DCS570 can cut true solid hardwoods, I'll definitely buy it, but if I don't I'll be buying the corded version. It would be a disappointment, but better than a failing saw.
Thank you again!
Niels
Neils, old sawyer,
A definite and definitive definition, inclusive of numerical parameters, not to mention species, is needed for "true solid hardwoods". Also for "cut" in reference to these.
For example, must the saw rip through 6 feet (or even 2 metres) of 4 inch (or even 120mm) thick greenheart at a rate not less than 1 inch (or even 26mm) per second?
But you may be only wanting to be ripping a foot of one inch thick lime, in a slow and leisurely fashion ..........? Perhaps you mean only to cross cut half inch thick cedar planks of 150mm width, taking your time to avoid too much spelk................................?
I still feel that a frame or bow saw would be coolest of them all, no matter what you cut of the various hardwoods. Just ask woodworker under 25 intent on being "authentic". :-)
Lataxe
I've been using circular saws for nearly 35 years, professionally. I was on the jobsite for most of it. I started out using a sidewinder, but when introduced to worm drives, I left all other aside! I loved my last corded one, a Ridgid. It was a workhorse that I owned for a decade at least. Never had a lick of problem with it.
During that time I disliked every cordless one I used. I hated the thumb safeties. I hated the lack of power. I hated that batteries seemed to never last through half of a job. One long cut on plywood and the batteries ended up back on the charger, etc. Drove me nuts.
Recently I moved across the United States and somehow left my beloved Ridgid in my son's work truck... only 3,000 miles away. The idea that shipping would probably cost almost as much as a new saw, kept me from even considering having him ship to back to me.
Dewalt had just released their 'worn drive style' saw. I was intrigued. Watched a few youtube videos where they said the power was greater than corded saws, including worm drives. So, I took a chance.
I will say that I love, love, love this saw. the 60V Max battery lasts forever. It has enough power for any task I've asked of it. It has cut any wood, hard or soft, like butter. I use it with a homemade guide and I can get finish cuts almost as fine as my table saw. I use it for cutting down big sheet goods, or, when I (rarely) venture on to job sites these days, it comes with me and has outperformed any saw I've owned previously.
So, I can say that the Dewalt DCS577X1 is an impressive piece of equipment and I would fully endorse it!
I have become a convert.
https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/circular-saws/flexvolt-60v-max-714-in-cordless-worm-drive-style-saw-90ah-battery-kit/dcs577x1
It appears that DeWalt has a 30-day money back guarantee for any reason. Their web page is a little confusing because I can't figure out which category the circular saw fits.
https://www.dewalt.com/legal/warranty/general-warranty-information
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled