Replies

1. 
   DickFl | Dec 19, 2006 09:10pm | #1

   I have the 14" Powermatic band saw, and the riser block kit. First attempt with he riser block resulted in the upper wheel being misaligned with lower wheel by approximately 1/2". I contacted the company and was told I would have to remove the alignment pins and reassemble without them. Use shims to align upper & lower wheels and plumb bobs both on wheel face as well as down both sides to align everything.
   I protested for over a month until they sent me a replacement riser block kit. When I compared the new vs. old riser block and the pin locations, I found everything to be identical. That was several months ago, and I have not tried to put the riser block in again, although I do have a need for it to resaw some wide material.
   One of these days I'll get someone to help me (don't try to do this alone!) and I'll install the block & shim it as necessary.
   I love the saw - too bad the riser block assembly is poorly manufactured. I have done quite a bit of cutting and resawing of narrow pieces - under 6" wide - and have had excellent results. (use GOOD blades and make sure tension is correct).
   I would appreciate any other's who have any comments about this issue.

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 20, 2006 05:37am | #2

   Was this with the blade on or off, and was the upper wheel plane aligned with the lower and parallel or non-parallel (not co-planar)? Blade off alignment check means less than blade on alignment check since there is some flexing. Did yo check the riser to see if the top mating surface is parallel to the bottom surface and are the edges on top plumb with the edges on the bottom with respect to the direction the upper has moved? If the riser is a parallelogram instead of a rectangle, the upper will move with the slope.I have the Grizzly 14" and it's the same saw, same riser block, same pins. If IIRC from when I installed the block on mine, there is some wiggle room for aligning the upper/lower before tightening the bolt. Try loosening it a bit with the blade off and see if you can get it where it needs to be. Remember to account for the arm flexing a bit with the blade under tension before tightening the bolt. The easy way to allow the upper/riser assy to move a little bit is by drilling the hole for one of the pins a touch oversized, using the other as a pivot. You'll have to view the wheels from the top or bottom to see which way it's off of being co-planar.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   DickFl | Dec 22, 2006 07:06pm | #3

   The first time I assembled it with the riser block, I never thought of checking the wheel alignments. It was when I attempted to put the blade on that the problem was noticed. I could not get the blade into both upper and lower guides, since the upper wheel was too far forward.
   When I checked the riser block for dimensional errors, the only noticeable problem was the pin locations on top vs bottom. They varied by about 1/32". I felt that this was the main cause of the upper wheel being shoved forward of the lower wheel, since that difference over a 2 foot distance could result in the approximate 1/2" mis-alignment. The block was parallel top to bottom, but I did not check for the "parallelogram" possibility, I will check that before the next assembly attempt.
   I did check alignments of the entire saw after removing the riser block, and everything was "near perfect", which confirmed to me that the riser block was the sole source of the problem.

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 23, 2006 02:10am | #4

   I can't really think of too many reasons for the riser to be that far off- I would think they have a jig set up so there isn't much variation, BICBW. Any chance that there's a Woodcraft near you so you can take yours in and see if they have one that will work? Or a Rockler, maybe.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   DavidCockey | Dec 23, 2006 05:44am | #5

   If the upper and lower surfaces of the riser block are parallel, then a 1/32 error in pin location should not result in a larger error in wheel location. The 1/32 error in pin location is equivalent to a parallel shift of the upper part of the saw 1/32 relative to the lower part.

   If the mating surfaces between the riser block and the upper and lower parts of the saw are not smooth, clean and bolted tight together then a small gap at one of the riser block to saw surfaces would result in a much larger deviation at the wheel. That's because an angle would be introduced between the upper and lower parts of the saw.

   While it's extra work you might try putting the saw together without the riser block and get it aligned that way.

   BTW, how did you establish the pin was off by 1/32?

1. 
   DickFl | Dec 23, 2006 06:40am | #7

   First of all, the saw is assembled without the riser block currently - and everything is "near perfect".
   The 1/32" variation was measured from the edges of the block - and how well the edges lined up with the upper and lower assemblies. You are correct in that this dimensional error alone would not cause the excess problem I have. Since I did not check for the parallelogram effect, that could be part of the problem.
   It's interesting that the comments I've received so far have been more informative than those from the company! All they said, repeatedly, was that I will have to shim everything to get a correct alignment. Never admitting that they might have a problem with their riser block kits either in mfg. tolerances or design.
   As soon as I have the time and a helper available, I will be attempting to reassemble the riser block and resolve the problem with shimming and / or a dead blow mallet. (after the holidays now)
   Thanks for all your comments.

2. 
   DavidCockey | Dec 23, 2006 10:37am | #8

   I installed a riser block in our Delta 14" bandsaw a couple of months ago, and it's together and aligned. It did require using the center bolt to pull everything together tight, it didn't just slip together. I can't remember if I needed to change the shims on the wheels to bring the wheels back into alignment but if I did it wasn't more than a 1/32 difference.

   2" misalignment is a lot. Did you use the tracking adjustment screw to bring the upper wheel parallel to the lower wheels (assuming it adjusts the same as the Delta)?

   I wouldn't count on measuring pin location from the edge of the casting as being particularly relevant. A 1/32 difference could easily be in the casting or how the casting was positioned when machined.

   Good luck!

2. 
   BruceS | Dec 23, 2006 06:27am | #6

   Ditto your problem,  But with a Jet 14.  Probably the same casting but different colour.  I'am going to remove the pins and align it with slightly snugged bolts and a rubber dead blow hammer.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S.