Replies

1. 
   [email protected] | Sep 23, 2007 09:08am | #1

   Unless: you are cutting very hard materials, that are near the maximum thickness the saw can handle; or, trying to hog out full depth / full width dadoes with an 8-inch dado set, you probably don't need the 5-hp. 

   There is a 5-hp PM-66 at work.  The motor control it is wired through has a current display on it.  Cutting 2-inch thick, Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, with a sharp blade it is only drawing enough amps to be at about 1-hp.  They were ripping green 3-inch thick Douglas Fir on it last week, it was only pulling about 2-hp. 

1. 
   ajbendik | Sep 24, 2007 02:36am | #3

   Thanks to both of you for the information.  You need all the confidence possible when invest $2300.  I would have hated to kick myself later for not spending a couple more bucks if it was worth it after jumping in for the first 2300.

2. 
   THintz | Sep 23, 2007 10:18am | #2

   I have the 3HP PM2000 and have yet to slow it down. I have been cutting a bunch of 2"-thick oak (rips & crosscuts) and with a decent blade, the PM2000 just walks right through everything. I think the 5HP version is more for an industrial setting that has lots of very heavy cutting jobs. Personally, I'd stay with the 3HP and spend the extra money on good blades.

   I have a review of the PM2000 with lots of photos and a video of its key features at the link below if that would help.

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm2000rvu.html

   Tom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

3. 
   Diz | Sep 24, 2007 03:44am | #4

   I've had the 3 hp for about a year and agree with other posts about cutting capability.  I've never had any indication of stalling.  I read something a while back that indicated the 5hp is for production with a power feeder and if all work is being fed by hand then you couldn't overload the 3hp.