I am finishing some curly cherry cabinets for a kitchen, I thinking of using a pre-catalyzed varnish water base pro coat , I’m afraid it will not give the full depth of grain.I am spraying . Any input or alternitive woult be appreciated
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I just finished a kitchen with all pre cat...You can't tell it from clear non cat lacquer...It needs a very (underline very) good respirator. really strong smell...It is just like regular lacquer, just catalyzes in a month or so, to be bullet proof.
gizzo,
Waterborne finishes don't give wood the same warm/wet look that solvent-based and oil-based finishes do. The waterborne finishes that come the closest to the look are the oil-modified waterborne finishes from Target Coatings (www.targetcoatings.com).
If you're not using one of Target's oil-modified finishes, there are a couple ways you can warm up the wood before applying the waterborne finish; you can start with a coat of de-waxed shellac or you can use a thin coat of oil or oil-base finish first. With waterborne finishes, de-waxed shellac is usually recommended to promote good adhesion. For the most natural color, use one of the grades of blonde shellac - some are a little more amber than others. You can use Zinsser's "Seal Coat" which is dewaxed or mix your own from flakes. The alternative is to use an oil-base product on the wood before the waterborne finish. You can use Minwax "Natural" stain, danish oil, thinned varnish/polyurethane, linseed oil, tung oil, etc. Just make sure the oil-base product is thoroughly dried before you topcoat with the waterborne finish.
Paul
gizzo,
A coat of shellac will help with just about any waterborne finish whether if it's oil-modified or not. Fuhr and Van Technologies also make very good oil-modified waterborne coatings.
This is an example of how the wood (in this case mahogany) looks with (right side) and without (left side) a coat of shellac.
View Image
You can find out more about the products from Fuhr at waterbornefinishes.com
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