Hello,
Haven’t been woodworking all that long but love it.
I’m currently building a tool chest for my hand tools and Was wondering if anyone has advice on pre finishing parts before glue up?
Is this more effective or efficient in anyway with glue squeeze out?
I’m the type of person who forgets to scrape glue squeeze out after it’s hardened a bit so I’m thinking prefinishing might be the best for me.
I’m planning on using “tried and true danish oil” as I like the results and it’s a tool chest so nothing fancy and easy to touch up.
I found one article on here about prefinishing but was wondering about anyone elses experiences with this method
Thanks,
Joshua
P.S. Thanks to all who have commented on my last couple post, really helpful and greatly appreciated
Replies
If you pre-finish the parts you will have a lot easier time removing glue squeeze out. The glue will not stick well on a oil finished surface. You will however still need to deal with any squeeze out. Keep in mind that you don't want to get the finish on any glued joinery parts as that will effect the strength of the glue joint. Some folks will wrap tape around any joint that shouldn't get finish. Also make certain that you have sanded and/or planed all the parts before applying the finish. Good luck and have fun.
I prefinish all the time. Any time it is easier than later. I just glued up a frame and panel today. Panel and the inside edges of the frame were prefinished. I often put masking tape over the joint surfaces to keep them clean. I also put masking tape right next to where glue can squeeze out, so it comes out on the tape. Much easier to remove, as there is just the slightest bit in the corner. Be aware that the oil finish needs to cure at least a day before it will resist the glue. I might wait 2 days with Tried and True.
Agree. Consider spending twice as much time and tape prefinishing than actually gluing up.
I prefinish all the time, as well.
As to glue ups, I have converted to using hide glue and it has been well worth the time to learn how to use.
Squeeze outs can be removed with a warm moist washcloth. And it will not mess up additional finishes like PVA does. Consider it.
Image below shows a set of table legs and aprons that were prefinished with shellac, stained shellac, then poly-urethane....ready to assemble.
I hang them to dry on wooden hangers using cup holder hooks that screw into the tenons.
Thanks for the reply, I like your drying method!
I have only used hide glue (rabbit hide glue) for violin making but I found it set too quickly, what kind of hide glue do you use?
Thansk
Pre-finishing is part of most projects - inside corners, wherever I can't reach to get squeeze out, etc.
I bought a cheap set of dental tools with all sorts of sharp pointy things to use when I really get into a squeeze.
For me as well - I have shifted a lot of my work towards hide glue - I like the extended open time, slipperiness, ability to clean up, and lack of impact on whatever finish you put on top of it.
I use masking tape where I think the glue might squeeze out or run. Pre-finishing before final assembly is often a good idea, especially for things, like a frame and panel, where seasonal movement might cause a little shrinkage and expose an unfinished edge. But for me, it seems like I always end up with a scratch, dent, tearout, fingerprints, glue mark, or something that shows during or after assembly. So I have to do some sanding or other repair that is harder to do with a topcoat. What I most often do, is stain/dye before assembly, them topcoat after assembly. More careful people can deal with complete pre-finishing.
Prefinishing interiors is standard practice for me, along with liquid hide glue and a damp rag for squeezeout. The soda straw trick helps on inside corners before the rag. There's always some post-clamp cleanup, so the exterior surfaces wait for the glue to dry.
What kind of hide glue do you use or brand. My experience with hide glue is only with violin making and that stuff sets really quickly. It was rabbit hide glue, in granular form
Thanks
See attachment....192 from Brooklyn Tool and Craft.
I agree on the short open time. You can extend it by adding urea (1 ml to 60 ml glue & 60 ml cold water). You can extend it and make it almost liquid by adding more urea (10 ml/60 ml glue/60 ml water).
I have seen some state that kosher salt works too, though I haven't tried that.
I do find, however, that when I am gluing up a big table top I sometimes have to revert to PVA with its longer open time.
You can also heat the joint to be glued and that will also extend hide glue's open time.
Same here. Titebond/Franklin hide glue. I think I read it has more open time than Old Brown or making your own. But I may have slept since then say don't quote me on it.
I use Titebond liquid hide glue at room temperature.
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In the last couple of years I've switched primarily to hide glue and use Old Brown glue and Titebond interchangeably. I've found open time to be similar with both. If you need or want to significantly extend open time also heating the joint makes a multi minute difference.
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