I admit, I’m anal retentive and hate to hand fit or sand. So measure twice, cut and mill once to perfection and then glue to perfection. I mount my cabinet face frames in a lock down mitre guage and cross cut with a straight bit on the shaper. Smooth precise cut with a sacrificial backing. Then the tenons fit precise with just a touch up sanding to blend the surfaces. Done.
Full length tenon, that another story. Prefer the Delta or equivalent tenon jig on the table saw. I put delrin adjustment pins on the mitre bar to remove any drift of the jig in the mitre slot while sawing. Almost as precise as the Shaper.
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Not sure if I am posting this correctly - but I use a tenon jig I made from a plan from Jim McCleary of provenwoodworking.com with a plunge router with a rabbeting bit. It makes pretty tenons that are obscenely crisp and square. Key is a router bit with a long shank and veryrous sized rub collars. I believe this is also what Pat Warner uses (or may have invented) as well and he sells jigs pre-made along with long router bits.
This is a very safe method and with a dust collector on a router a pretty dust free one.
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