I was hoping to find an old Hitachi chop saw (I think 7 1/4 or 7 1/2″ blade) but I’ve had no luck. I need an incredibly precise saw so I’m wondering what folks might recommend.
I need to be able to achieve perfect miters from both sides to make flawless frames. Hoping to avoid buying a guillotine.
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Replies
An old cast iron DeWalt 9 inch blade Radial arm saw ?
The cast iron part sound good and true. Unfortunately space is a real issue for me. Thanks for the input.
I hate to drop the F-bomb in the forum, but the Festool Kapex is very accurate and gives clean repeatable cuts.
I'm not sure what is so special about an old Hitachi. They used to be a good working brand -- since watered down much like Porter Cable -- but there was nothing extra accurate about them.
I have a Kapex and love it. But Bosch have a great reputation. A good Dewalt will at least be the equal of the Hitachi.
The kapex is too expensive. I'm looking for something smaller. Also wondering if I even need a slider. I have a larger slider chop saw with duel bevel. The old Hitachi I used a few years back was beautifully precise and was the saw of choice for miters even though we had a festool and another large saw. Everything seems so cheaply made now.
If you don’t need the extra capacity of a slider don’t get one, it introduces much more chance of inaccuracy. A question, if it’s exact 45s you need (you only said miters, so I’m not sure), why not make a miter sled for your table saw (assuming you have one)? Guaranteed repeatable accuracy.
That’s what I was thinking. Also planning on making a proper sled for my table saw so I agree this would likely be the move. Thank you very helpful.
You could use a shooting board.
does seem like a great alternative to a guillotine seeing as I took out most of a fingernail using one.
I get excellent results from my big deWalt. DWS780-XE.
I bought mine from a big box store but checked out all the other options there and compared with the rest the big deWalt was the best by far. It is rigid, without any slop in the positioning and can be locked positively at any angle and with a big scale is accurate to 1/4 degree with easy reproduction of angles. Detents at common angles are spot on.
Even if you don't care about accuracy, it's a grunty workhorse and has no trouble chewing through aluminium or PVC. It doesn't even seem to mind nails.
Interesting and challenging problem. I have a TS sled and cut one miter on the left side the other on the right side which will compensate for any errors. I use this for larger sections like miter joints on small table tops. I also have a guillotine which I use for smaller pieces like edge banding on a chess board. I do builds as a hobby and can spend time being fussy, especially cutting those mil shavings for the chess board. Both worked out well for my projects.
I probably would explore setting up a dedicated miter jig station using a pull saw to get accurate cuts. Not power tool but you can cut a lot of joints in a dedicated hour of work. I look forward to other comments on the subject.
Thank you for the input. Lots to consider. Mostly space as I don't have much and the precision factor. Wondering if using a saw that doesn't have a glider is better for accuracy.
For smaller frames that wont be too tedious for hand-cutting, I use a Nobex miter saw. For bigger frames (>2") I bit the bullet and made a shooting board.
Thank you. I will check out all these options
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