Replies

1. 
   BossCrunk | Aug 08, 2006 09:11pm | #1

   Spray everything that will rust with Boeshield and leave it.  Don't wipe.  Don't buff.

   
   

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   Edited 8/8/2006 2:27 pm ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   skidkid | Aug 09, 2006 05:42pm | #3

   Boss,

   I've used Boeshield and LPS-1 and 2 and they have worked great but I found I had to reapply them every few months.    Maybe it is the marine environment here.    Any ideas??

   Pasa bon dia.

1. 
   BossCrunk | Aug 09, 2006 05:45pm | #4

   Never had a problem, but I don't live on the coast. 

   If it's not holding up in that kind of environment then I'd say the answer is Cosmoline or something along those lines for long-term storage. 

   Something coated with a petroleum based goo is not going to rust.

    

1. 
   Tom in Madison | Aug 09, 2006 10:41pm | #6

   PS, the Cosmoline sounds like a very effective solution, but cleaning it off can be a bear. Here's a link to a guy who's worked out a few ways to clean this tenacious stuff off:
   http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/cosmoline/index.aspTom

1. 
   rdreid | Aug 11, 2006 03:26pm | #7

   I have acquired a very new Delta table saw with the cast iron wings, however, one of the wings has a couple of spots of rust - nothing major just a spot or two here or there.  Any suggestions on what to do?

2. 
   BossCrunk | Aug 11, 2006 06:17pm | #10

   3-in-1 and some 400 grit.

3. 
   AndyGr | Aug 13, 2006 08:49pm | #12

   I swear by these new bio-derusters out there. They are non-acidic and pretty harmless, they will not attack base metal, paint rubber or plastics, they do make all the oxide release from the parent metal. Great for soaking a basket case plane or pair of pliars left outside for several years. It does inhibit to a certain extent as well, though not for storage purposes.

   For fine plane tools and chisels try Carmelia oil and apply several coats as cast iron is porous.

   Cast Iron machine tools, probably best to oil the tops and put a breathable cover over. I have been experimenting with Auto Glym resin high performance car polish on shiny clean cast iron beds to see how it stands up to ocassional use only situations.

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Aug 09, 2006 05:02pm | #2

   I've been reading my back issues. Just came across the answer to your question.

   Issue #153, p. 114 covers the entire suggested process. To start with, remove all sawdust, anywhere on, or in, the machines. Blow out the motors and switch boxes; detension the belts, then apply oil or grease on the metal surfaces. (Not on the belts!) But, better read the story rather than count on my memory of it.

   Frosty

1. 
   Tom in Madison | Aug 09, 2006 10:32pm | #5

   Thanks... I had tried doing a search for terms like Storage, Rust, Put Away, etc and couldn't find it but I knew I'd seen one at one time. The Beoshield sounds good too, although I've also found that it needed to be reapplied over time.Thanks you guys... I knew I could count on you!
   Tom

3. 
   YesIWood | Aug 11, 2006 03:38pm | #8

   Tom,

    

     This topic came up some time ago here.  I am a firm beleiver that Johnson paste wax works just fine.  I live about  8 miles south of you and have all my tools in the garage.  If I am not going to use them I wax all the surfaces.  Works great.  BTW, if you go under classifieds, and wood working groups, you will see that Madison has an active Woodworking Guide.  Next meeting is thursday the 17th of Aug.  Drop me a line if interested.

   Joe

   Is it really saw dust or wood dust?

1. 
   Tom in Madison | Aug 11, 2006 05:04pm | #9

   As far as small patches of rust go... I usually use Navel Jelly and a Sandflex handblock (silicon grit embedded in a rubber block) to get rid of it. Of course, rust present is metal lost, so you can expect some pits afterwards unless you're prepared to bring the surface down to the level of your lowest pit. I'm glad to see that the paste wax works well. I tend to use that for regular upkeep but I didn't know how well it would work for long term. I'm going to be out of town for the next 2 years basically, so I needed a solution that was long-lasting. And thanks for the heads up about the Madison Woodworkers guild. Sorry I hadn't known about them before! I'm moving to RI for a while, so I'll keep a look out for something similar in Newport.Tom

4. 
   BruceS | Aug 12, 2006 04:45pm | #11

   Your best bet is cosmoline.  My son in law works in an armory and they just cleaned up some 50 Cal. machine guns that were stored in Europe since WW II.  Still in perfect condition.  Can't get much better than that.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

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   Edited 8/12/2006 12:07 pm ET by BruceS

5. 
   RyanC | Mar 18, 2007 06:05am | #13

   I think I wanna see the plane collection lol

          -Ryan C.

1. 
   Tom in Madison | Mar 18, 2007 06:37am | #14

   Well... ok. Partial collection here.
   LOL!

1. 
   RyanC | Mar 18, 2007 06:39am | #15

   Very nice!!  Hows that LN 112 work for ya?

           -Ryan C.

1. 
   Tom in Madison | Mar 18, 2007 08:25pm | #18

   It took a while to get the 112 working the way I wanted it... I had trouble with getting the hook on the blade just right and then I had a tendency to take too deep a cut. Once I ironed those things out, it's behaved just beautifully. I think the trick for getting the burr right was to start with as well-sharpened a blade as I could, and then barely turn the burr, do a test cut, and add a hair more pressure to turn the burr again if that cut didn't work out well. I really needed it when working on some stubborn curly birch and it produced a glass-smooth surface when I got everything just right.

6. 
   BruceS | Mar 18, 2007 07:48pm | #16

   Cosmoline or STP after a thorough cleaning,  A bummer to clean up but still better than cleaning up rust.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

7. 
   highfigh | Mar 18, 2007 08:03pm | #17

   I'm in Milwaukee and my machines are in the garage too. I didn't do much out there this winter but the trouble usually comes in spring when the warm, moist air comes and hits the cold iron. I was using Top Cote for one can's worth of winters and when I traded my ability to reason in on my hand planes, I switched to paste wax. I checked the top on my table saw last week and I'll have to touch it up with a Scotch Brite pad but there's no obvious rust at all. I think the grit I felt was dust that became stuck due to condensation. My bandsaw table looks great, too. I think I would just put it on heavier and not buff it out if I needed to store them for two years and that would be if they were staying outside. Inside, I don't think I would worry much if the basement is not going to be as cold as outside. I would probably wax the hand tools three times and work it into all of the little crevices and threads. I also insulated and drywalled most of my basement and that has made a huge difference in the humidity.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
8. 
   InMyOpinion | Mar 18, 2007 09:02pm | #19

   It's not magic, but Empire's Top Saver has become rather universal for me. It will remove rust with the use of 3M's gray scrub pad. Oddly, I've found it more effective than paste wax for protecting the TS top. I use it on planes and even router bit bearings. It works well to protect and shine straight razors, really.

   I'm not a proponent of Empire's liquid(s), and suspect it's got 6 labels on one liquid. But this one does work as I've indicated.

   IMO, jim