I have created a few picture frames and have been wanting to branch out a bit. For my previous creations, I used cheap fir moldings and corner splines for added strength. I then stained them in the desired color.
I really like the dark mahogany look and when looking around my local area, I was floored at the prices. What I want to do is stain the frames using a dark mahogany but I want to have contrasting spline colors so they stand out. However, I am unsure how to go about this while preventing the splines from absorbing the stain.
In my experience, if I cut the spline slots (without putting them in place) and stain the frame the desired color, then try to put the splines in, when I go to insert the splines and make them flush to the frame, some of the stain comes off via sanding or the like. If I try to insert the splines before staining, the splines absorb the stain and fail to accomplish what I am trying to achieve.
How can I get contrasting frame-to-splines via staining without the spline absorbing the stain and defeating my original intent? I have heard clear nail polish works but the spline is not as crisp this way as applying the nail polish with the brush can leave minor mishaps (jagged lines, bumpy finishing, etc). I just can’t justify $10+ per foot on darker wood to accomplish this but I really don’t want to give up the contrasting spline colors either.
Any thoughts, information, videos, etc that would lead to a possible solution in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and I hope I was clear in my intentions and that what I want is actually possible. Thanks again!
Replies
Finish sand the frame moldings and stain and finish them before cutting the frame parts. After glueup cut the splines flush and add a coat of finish before final sanding. The end grain of the splines should seal enough to keep out any stained sawdust. Finally add another coat of finish.
Experiment with different species of wood for your splines. Something like maple will not absorb the dark stain as much as the fir and will come out lighter. Likewise, walnut will likely come out darker but, not by much if you are using a very dark stain. Also, experiment with running the grain of the spline perpendicular to the joint line. The exposed end grain will end up looking different than the long grain of the fir.
Thank you both for the comments.
@_MJ_ your method is similar to how I create my frames. The problem I am having with this is when I go to sand the splines flush, I get scratches in the finish and stain of the darker color. The stain doesn't seem to penetrate very deep into the wood so the smallest of sanding tends to distort the dark staining. I am using 120 grit sandpaper (as opposed to 220) as it has to be abrasive enough to take some meat off the spline to make it flush with the frame itself. I am unsure what you mean by "The end grain of the splines should seal enough to keep out any stained sawdust".
I have tried to build the frame (pre-staining), cut the splines, glue in the splines and sand flush, then seal the splines at the end grain to prevent absorption of any stain, then stain the frame but the end grain still sucks up the stain.
@bilyo, I understand what you are saying. However, I am wanting a deep contrast as pictured. Your method works to create a contrast of color. For example, if I want to stain a dark ebony, if I apply your method, instead of the frame and splines being ebony, the splines appear either darker or lighter in contrast; yet, they both are ebony. Much like this second picture.
I am trying to get this stark contrast without actually having to buy the expensive wood as the cost just doesn't pass the sanity check for a picture frame.
Use dewaxed shellac (buy flakes and mix or get something like Sealcoat from Zinser). Use a small artist brush and paint it onto the splines. Let dry and then stain the wood. The shellac will minimize pickup of stain in the splines.
Test on scrap first.
Try gluing up the frames without the splines, then finish the frame before cutting the slots. Fit the splines and remove them, then finish the edges before you glue them in. This avoids the sanding step with the splines in place. The final step is gluing in the splines.
As MJ said, finish the frame and then cut the splines to fit and finish and then glue them in. The only problem I see with that is getting them absolutely flush. Since you are trying to accentuate the splines anyway, follow the above process. However, rather than cutting them flush, cut them so they will stand proud a bit such as what you frequently see done with through tenons in mission style furniture. Then, when you glue them in, you don't need to be concerned about them being flush.
Another option would be to use different colored plastic for your splines. Of course, you would need to find a glue that will adhere to both wood and plastic. This way, you can glue in the plastic spline, sand it flush, and then stain the whole frame without any concern for changing the color of the plastic spline.
I recently purchased a two part epoxy from Lowes that is made for plastics. I used it one time to glue some acrylic plastic and it seems to have done the job. I haven't tested it for strength but, it is holding the two parts together for their intended purpose even though they are not under a great amount of stress. It might work well for your purpose.
Do you think using a card scrapper instead of sanding might work? If so, it would be much simpler.
You could try using a dye rather than a stain. They sink in more than the typical oil-based stain. Dyes are sometimes called "water stains", leading to some confusion for the consumer. You might be able to dye the frame, then cut and fit the splines, then apply the clear finish.
@rwyoung, that may be better than the nail polish route. I will have to give that a try. Thank you for chipping in.
@_MJ_ I will have to try that out. I had thought fitting the splines to perfect fit before gluing them in would yield differing results as it could swell the wood, but I will have to give it a whirl.
@bilyo I hadn't thought about plastic splines. This may be an avenue to take to prevent any mishaps but also isn't wood so I am not sure how plastic in wood would look once completely finished. Thank you for the ideas. Accenuating the splines could be a possible solution, I will have to see how it looks.
@ecyor I hadn't thought about a card scrapper. I am unsure if it will work on hardwood or not but definitely worth a try. Thank you.
@jowuhr Ah, that could definitely work. I had seen 'water stains' and I thought it was a typical stain just water-based instead of oil based; making it easier to apply or something. I have never used them as I have always stuck with the tried and true minwax stains. It may be worth getting one and giving it a whirl.
I have also thought about using one of those fine jewelry files the exact size of the spline and sanding that way.
Thank you all for chipping in and presenting your ideas. I will have to make a test frame and try each of these ideas on a given corner to see what works best for me. I will try to report my findings back here but will be a little while as I am having to catch up on some work and need to build a new miter jig. =)
It occurred to me that if you were to look at what your time is worth vs. what the material cost and what you could sell the frames for (I can't remember if you were intending to sell them) it might actually work out to just bite the bullet and locate the appropriate wood in the first place and not have to deal with stains & dyes and fiddling around.
Example: I can get sapelle all day long for under $7/bf. Let's call it $7/bf for argument sake. And just for argument sake, perhaps you were going to stain poplar. Poplar I can get in small quantities all day for under $3/bf dressed so again, just call it $3/bf.
Again, assume you waste a lot of wood and it takes you 3BF per frame. The cost difference is $12.
If all the complicated finishing schedules take more than 1hr, you are loosing money.
For reference, local (round number) prices for S4S 4/4 :
walnut $6/bf
cherry $5/bf
red oak $3-4 seem to be more volatile
white oak $4
hard maple $4
For figured versions or quarter sawn, add $1/bf
Ultimately I think you might just want to look around at material sources and think about that.
@rwyoung, from your analysis I would agree with what you are saying. The obstacle I face is there is not a hardwood lumber yard near me. I can get some 1/2", possibly 3/4" but no 1-1.5", cuts of oak and walnut pieces from big box stores but no selection of red oak, mahogany, or cherry. I have to drive about 2-hours (round trip) to get those and those prices are as I stated before. I can get poplar, fir, pine 2,3,4" x 6-8' x 1" for about $6-20 for the whole length.
I will keep an eye out for a deal on wood as my experimentation, even with a fine-close dowel-cut saw and tiny files, I am unable to get what I desire. The stain is just too thin and sanding, even 380 grit is too abrasive for it.
All in all, thanks for chiming in.
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