Replies

1. 
   teabags | Feb 28, 2006 08:19pm | #1

   the feed speed is too slow or the cutter speed too fast, so can you reduce the speed on the router? I don,t like the idea of speeding up the feed speed, but you could try smaller cuts until you get to the final light skim.

        regards Teabag.

      p.s  could you work the mould with hand moulding planes or scratch stock.

1. 
   allenh | Mar 01, 2006 03:12am | #5

   Do you mean the feed rate of the piece or the RPM rate of the router. Thanks

1. 
   teabags | Mar 01, 2006 08:23pm | #7

   the router cutter is dwelling in one area too long,causing friction heat to build up and cause the burn marks . if you could reduce the  depth of cut and the rpm (first choice) try a small section and see if you have any improvement. clean the cutter and give it a touch up (diamond card ) before the final pass. if you are using a hand held router (not inverted) try to ease off the pressure when you move (reposition your body) along the work edge,the guides and fences will take you back to the last position to carry on.  If early caveman had slowed down on the bow speed we wouldn,t have had fire,,,,,, all the very best

      regards Teabag

    

2. 
   Pondfish | Feb 28, 2006 08:23pm | #2

   Be sure your cutter is high quality, clean and SHARP.  Dull bits will burn.  Low quality bits will burn.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   allenh | Feb 28, 2006 08:45pm | #3

   What do you mean by hide signatures? Are you referring to an article in FW in 2005?

1. 
   Pondfish | Feb 28, 2006 09:31pm | #4

   "Hide signatures" is an option to hide the signature line that accompanies messages you post.  I've noticed several posters who, in their signature lines, wear their political hearts on their sleeves, and I don't care to see what they've written: that's what syrup of ipecac is for!

    Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 01, 2006 08:22pm | #6

   Jatoba is a very oil rich wood.  Therefore when the wood is heated by the router bit, the oils burn.  You can try moving the router faster and be sure you are using sharp bits.  It also helps sometimes to make a very light final pass moving the router fairly rapidly.

   Howie.........
1. 
   allenh | Mar 01, 2006 10:24pm | #8

   Thanks. Since Jatoba is oily, will I have any problems with glue up and should I take any special precautions?

1. 
   Ricks503 | Mar 01, 2006 10:26pm | #9

   Have not worked with that, but typical method is to wipe the glue joint with naptha or mineral spirits a little before glue up.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

2. 
   wgc | Mar 03, 2006 10:36am | #12

   I've used Gorilla Glue with Jatoba, and it seemed to work fine. I dampen both surfaces to be glued first, not just one.

3. 
   Pondfish | Mar 04, 2006 03:51pm | #13

   Besides oily, jatoba will have silicates in the wood.  Essentially this wood is rock-impregnated.  This makes it tough on cutters, so watch out for dulling on your bits--that will really lead to burning.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

4. 
   cadiddlehopper | Mar 02, 2006 01:37am | #10

   Almost any wood is subject to router bit burn. Spindle speed, feed rate, & oil in the wood all contribute. You might try making two passes on each edge. Leave about 1/64th to be taken off on the second pass. Before making the second pass, to minimize oiliness, wipe the surface you are cutting with naptha or lacquer thinner, but be careful! And work with lots of ventilation if not even more personal protection. Dry the surfaces by applying a stream of compressed air. Once you are satisfied that the surfaces are dry and fumes have dissipated, take of that last 1/64th. You might even wait a half hour or so just to be certain. You should have better control of feed on the second pass. Not too slow, not too fast!

   I have done the two pass trick on poplar without solvent wiping. It does not eliminate all burning, but it greatly reduces it. I have never worked a wood that is harder than jatoba. I don't think there is one. I was also a bit disappointed in the color after a year of photosynthesis. I don't remember what finish I used. It was either boiled linseed oil or tung oil varnish. You might want to invest in some UV inhibitor to avoid color change.

   Cadiddlehopper

5. 
   Dave45 | Mar 02, 2006 04:32pm | #11

   Are you using a carbide bit with a guide bearing?  Those generally give the best cuts and burn the least.