Problem using Keller 1500 jig

non trad stu | Posted in General Discussion on February 17, 2008 06:23am

I have been trying to successfuly and repetively use the Keller 1500 dtail jig. Actually, I can use it to make tight fitting dtails BUT I am not able to get the 1/2 tails to cosistently be flush with the mating edges of the dtail piece. I have mounted tracks with movable stops on both sides of the backer block, tried the tranferring from dtail to pins as laid out in the (skimpy) instructions, made my stock in multiples of the 1 1/8″ spacing all to no avail. Still have to plane down the edges of finished boox to get everything flush. Any tips? Or should I just break down and buy a Leigh? Only current need is for through dtails and hand cutting is out for the 28 drawers I have to make! TIA.

Replies

Jamie_Buxton | Feb 17, 2008 07:17pm | #1
I don't know what the issue is with your process, but I use a Keller, and get the joined boards to line up. I scribe the second board with a pencil, and adjust the jig until I can't see the pencil markings.

Neil | Feb 18, 2008 12:29am | #2
I have the Keller and haven’t has any issues. There are however, two very important point to remember.

 

1.       The stick must be in 1 1/8 multiples.

2.       The pins and tails are always 180 degrees out of phase. That is, the center of the pins need to be the center of the tails. Mark the centers on the backer board. That way you don’t have to always scribe the pins and tails. It’s an opportunity for error.

 

Anywhere you position the stock along the jig is fine.

 

One suggestion however.   Glue some sandpaper to the backer board. That will keep the stock from slipping. For me that’s the number one reason the stock will not line up – it slipped during the cut.

 Neil

Napie | Feb 18, 2008 01:36am | #3
While for small jobs I prefer to hand cut DT’s, when it comes to any volume work I have used the Keller 1600 and 2400 for twenty years and have never had the problem you describe. Just lay out the pins from the tails just like hand cutting them and all you need to do are the ones on the end.
BriMcG | Feb 18, 2008 07:30am | #4
Hi, I also own a Keller and think it's great despite some limitations like spacing but have never had a real problem with it. Very easy to use. I even was able to get an ultra small set of bits for my jig made.

And how many companies do you know that when you call the 800 number the company president answers the phone? Yep, everytime I have called I have spoken to David Keller personally and he would hold my hand through any problem.

Please give the company a call...you won't be disappointed. 800-763-9336.

And No, I don't own stock. Just a goood little company he has there.

[email protected]

Brian
gmoney | Feb 18, 2008 08:21am | #5
you know what? i have the leigh jig from about 10 years back and i always got the same misalignment that you talk about with the keller. even called leigh and they could really help me either. i think the general drift was something to the effect that my stock may not be square. i alway thought it might be the end stop somehow and i did have better luck making my own stop. anyway it was very frustrating after all that money. it is worth a try to check your stock with the most true square that you can find. a small error in angle seems to multiplied through a project.

off question topic and disregard if you like, but there are some very good jigs for the cutting both pins and tails in the techniques section of this site. i use many of them still today. jeff miller and steve latta come to mind. that might be worth a look as well, if not for now just to keep in mind for someday. now here's some potentially very unwelcome technique. people here don't seem to like it, but i cut excellent dovetails on my scroll saw as well.

good luck,

greg