Hi,
I have been trying to use my plunge router (PC) with a template guide for making mortises. The problem is that when I plunge downward, there is enough play in the downward action that the bit (1/4″) scrapes the template – until the plunge mechanism is locked in.
So my question is how much side to side movement or slop is normal during the plunge action.
Do your normally plunge downward while using template guides?
Maybe its just a problem with my router?
thanks
‘mark
Replies
Mark—
I assume you’re talking about template guide bushings, the metal rings that mount into the baseplate of your router and allow a bit to project through them. (Stop me now if you’re talking about a setup that involves a shop-made template and a pattern or trim bit.)
It’s not unusual to need to plunge downward during an operation that involves a template guide bushing setup. I’ve done it a number of times. And it’s not uncommon to cut into the bushing if the router allows the bit to move a wee bit sideways during the plunge. Some bushings are made from brass, which is easier to cut into and less harmful to the bit than steel, so these are always a good choice. But I’ve cut into my steel bushings, and my bits are no worse for wear. It is, however, something you want to avoid. And be sure to wear good eye protection to ward off flying metal particles.
Routers with more precise plunge posts will fare better during these operations. The plunge posts on some routers are really sloppy, so it could indeed be your router. But a really deep cut—with the bit extended far from the collet—into a dense hardwood such as hard maple, will tax the best of routers. To minimize metal-to-metal contact, you can use a smaller-diameter, or use a larger-diameter bushing. Either way, the idea is to leave more space between the bushing and the bit to prevent accidental contact. For example, using a 1/2 in. bit and a guide bushing with a 5/8 in. inside diameter will leave a full 1/16 in. of clearance around the bit, giving you plenty of margin for error.
—Andy Rae
Edited 8/19/2007 11:27 am ET by woodrae
Hi Andy,thank you for your reply. That's reassuring that I'm not alone in experiencing this problem . I did pick up a set of the bushings last week and used them. But instead of using the plunge attachment on my router, I used the micro adjustment base. That seemed to work a bit better.thanks again!'mark
Mark,
I think the problem is in your router. I have never, in my 30 plus years of routing had this issue. Now maybe your tolerances are too tight between your bit and your bushing. Go with a bigger template guide to solve this problem. But do not think that you can rout into these guides without consequence. You run the risk of unscrewing them and having them taking a tilt-a-whirl ride around your bit. Very exciting but dangerous.
Your plunge router should move smoothly up and down on its posts. If there's enough play side to side during this operation, replace the posts, the bushings the posts ride in, or the whole dang router. I use Hitachi plunge routers mostly. I've never had this problem. I also have started using Bosch's plunge base with one of their 1617 motors. Again, no problems. Look at your plunge base and check for side to side play or go to a bigger template guide. Your bit should not be reaming a template guide's ID to fit through. Good luck. Gary
Hi Gary,thanks for you reply - I appreciate your comments. About a week ago I decided to take the router to the PC service center to have the factory tech look at it. Even though it was about 2 years old, I hard hardly used that base. They kept if for a day or so and decided to order me a replacement because they thought the movement was too great.But I did stop by my local professional power tool store (Berlands) and looked at a number of plunge units and quite a few had some definite slop throughout the plunge movement.I thought about going to the larger template, and while that will save my bit and the template too - I end up with sloppier slots or holes that I am cutteing because the side to side movement (slop) causes the holes or slots to be elongated. So we'll see how the new plung base works out.thanks again'mark
Hi Mark,
I can't recommend any specific brands of course that start with an H. And suggesting that this company whose name ends with an I makes a superior product might be misconstrued. But if you go and test one of these Japanese plunge routers, say for instance in an M12V model, you'll find no slop in the plunging mechanism, that is if you find the three syllable company name that rhymes with Hibachi. Now mine, I have three of these routers, do sometimes stick when moving up and down, but side to side play is never an issue. I've had them for ten years or more. Perhaps you're running into the never ending slide of quality as manufacturers search for newer, cheaper methods of manufacturing. Good luck. Gary
It surprises me that this is an issue at all, with any brand of plunge router. I just took a close look at my DW 618, and as I would have guessed, the plunge mechanism consists of bronze bushings riding on steel posts, a simple, inexpensive design that's been used on sliding and rotating machinery since long before I was born (and I was born a long time ago). It works smoothly, and there is no perceptible slop whatsoever. Why would a router manufacturer even think of using anything else?
-Steve
Money.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled