Replies

1. 
   miserybob | Sep 21, 2009 05:08pm | #1

   I'm not sure from your question, but did the mix leave an orange color on the surface of the wood or just in the jar?  I haven't had any trouble using iron buff regardless of how nasty it looks before straining. 

   Rust is the ultimate goal here, so adding steel wool that's already rusty shouldn't be a problem - I've seen some folks recommend throwing in any rusty nails you've got laying around to speed up the reaction.

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Sep 22, 2009 04:52pm | #4

   It left a very dark orange residue on the surface of the wood itself. For me this is a problem, because I'm using it on painted wood that has been selectively sanded away, and the result is that it greys the exposed wood and ideally does nothing to the painted wood. (I'm mimicking weathering on a model house). I cannot use dye for this process because it would color the painted wood as well.... hence the choice of chemical stain.

2. 
   davcefai | Sep 21, 2009 08:41pm | #2

   Short answer:
   There are several forms of iron oxide and some of them are the basis for ochre pigments. It seems to me that you made one or more of these.

   For the long answer google "ferrous" and "ferric".

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 21, 2009 10:31pm | #3

   Chemistry is an exact science, but messing around with chemicals and combining them with wood, which comes in lots of "flavors", is why I generally prefer to do ebonizing with a water soluble powdered dye.  Those are available in a number of shades of black, and are much more consistent and repeatable, however satisfying it is too go back a century and role your own. 

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Sep 22, 2009 04:53pm | #5

   It left a very dark orange residue on the surface of the wood itself. For me this is a problem, because I'm using it on painted wood that has been selectively sanded away, and the result is that it greys the exposed wood and ideally does nothing to the painted wood. (I'm mimicking weathering on a model house). I cannot use dye for this process because it would color the painted wood as well.... hence the choice of chemical stain.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 22, 2009 04:58pm | #6

   You might try running the solution through a coffee filter or two to remove the "pigment" particles. 

1. 
   BrentBudsberg | Sep 22, 2009 07:44pm | #7

   Yeah, last time I ran it through a paint strainer, but I'll try a coffee filter as well this time. My guess is that the rustiness was due to a large part of the steel wool pad being at the top and coming into contact with the air. I tried to keep all of the steel wool submerged this time. Hopefully this will help.

2. 
   davcefai | Sep 22, 2009 09:24pm | #9

   I have never tried this kind of staining but you might like to try this:Use some Iron Sulphate from a gardening store. I believe thay sell it as a soil additive. It will be quite pure and of a determinate composition.If it works, great. If not, surely you have a plant somewhere that needs a treat.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 22, 2009 09:20pm | #8

   Short answer: I agree .. NEVER try for BLACK.. Just some shade of dark gray/grey?