Hi folks. I’ve been making a cherry mounting block for a depth sounder in the master stateroom of my boat. After sanding to 400, I began to apply the first of 25 coats of spray lacquer to the small 6″ x 6″ mount. I was looking for a high gloss finish, and after several coats, it was starting to look like glass – exactly what I had in mind, except for one thing. It was clear that some parts of the grain had absorbed the lacquer better than others, the result being small spots that looked flat instead of gloss. There were also minor valleys following the grain that I incorrectly assumed I would sand out with subsequent coats. This is not the blotching that was described in an issue of FWW a couple of months ago. I was convinced that if I continued to add coats that the finish would even itself out. I was terribly wrong. After 25 coats, I gave up, sanded it down and applied what turned out to be a very smooth satin wax finish. It looks great, but I’d like to learn from my experience. Should I have used a wood primer, sealer or something like shellac before spraying? If I use teak, will I run into similar problems? I’m a very raw rookie when it comes to finishing wood. Thanks kindly for any assistance you can provide to my tough learning experience. .. Ken
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Replies
Ken,
Are we having fun yet? Finishing can be interesting when you begin but you'll get it after a while.
First off there is no need to go beyond 220 when sanding the wood. I rarely go beyond 180.
I'll assume you were using a spray can of lacquer. Those lacquers are thin to the extreme Wood does not absorb lacquer like it would an oil; lacquer sits on the surface and builds a film finish.
A coat of shellac would have sealed the wood and become the foundation for the subsequent lacquer coats.
After spraying 3 - 4 coats of lacquer I would have sanded it back lightly with some 600 grit paper and applied a few more. Also when spraying lacquer you should "box coat" it. That means spray a light coat with the grain and then immediately follow it by spraying a coat across the grain. This gives you a full even coat.
I think you had enough lacquer on there at the end to rub it back with a very fine paper like 1000 grit and then hit it with an automotive polish like Mequires. If you wanted a softer shine a grey scotch pad and some wax would do the trick.
You could have just put on about three coats of a spar varnish and been done. The varnish will take longer to dry and you need to sand in between coats but it has far more body or solids than the lacquer and will subsequently build faster.
Teak is a totally different wood than cherry as it has an inherent oiliness to it. Without sealing it with shellac first the lacquer would probably have "fish eyed" on you. That would be little craters in the surface of the finish. They are a pain to deal with.
The thing you absolutely need to do ( I tell everyone this) is to read. There are some great finishing books out there. Invest a little time in them it will take a lot of the guess work out of your equation.
Peter
Thanks so much, Peter. Your explanation was for me a university course condensed into a page. That is exactly what I was hoping for to learn from my mistakes. I have a couple of books - Hand Applied Finishes - Jeff Jewitt and Understanding Wood Finishing - Bob Flexner. Am I on the right track with those books, or are there others that you think might supplement what they offer for my marine woodworking and refinishing endeavors on my boat? Thanx again . Ken
Ken,
The books you have are good ones.
Take the time to understand the products, that by far is the most important point. Read and re-read the sections on finishes.
The rest of it is "time on the tool" The learning curve is there but not that complicated. Making samples is the best time you will spend learning.
The one thing I always do in finishing; use the KISS method. KEEP IT SIMPLE.
Good luck,
Peter
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