I’ve been having a problem setting up my rail cuts when making panel doors. After the stile cuts, I set up the router table for the rail cut using a miter sled. I make sure the sled is square to the fence, and that the cutter (i.e. the ball-bearing guide) is flush with the fence…or so I think. Still, when I cut a test piece and check for square using a previously cut stile, it is out of square. I readjust and cut another test piece but the same problem occurs.
I have thought the problem might be that the fence is slipping or that it isn’t even straight, that the bits are getting dull (this didn’t use to be a problem), or that my contractor’s square is not square.
If you have any thoughts I would appreciate it. Thanks.
JBD
Replies
Hi JBD ,
Several thoughts on your problem , first off the rail cut is typically cut first then the stile cut . Second a dull cutter is never good and perhaps you are removing material from the end of the rail actually making the rail shorter , hence the un square result is a possibility .
Unless you are using a miter gauge or a slot in the table a square relationship of the cutter to the fence is not a factor in most cases .
hope this helps , good luck dusty
JDB,
Checking your square is easy - draw a line with it and then flip it over to check that line from the other direction. If it's 90° then the line will match perfectly from both directions.
Your problem with the router table is more complex. I'd suggest posting a photo of the setup if you can. There are too many variables that might be the cause, and we're shooting in the dark without seeing the details.
DR
JBD,
Since you are using a bearing guided cutter the answer should be easy to find. The first thing to do is check that your stock is cut square before shaping. If you are satisfied that your stock is square move on to the shaping process. First you should cut the cope cut. (the tenon cut) I would suggest that you do away with the miter sled. Make a sled that will ride againt your fence. Once your work piece contacts the bearing your bearing will guide the cut. If either fence is farther out than the bearing your cut will not be square. The bearing must be the registering point for the cut. After the cope cuts are all made continue to the stick cut. Hope this helped.
Thomas
JB,
Is it possible that the rail is being pushed away from the cutter? End grain cuts take a fair amount of force to maintain full depth of cut. If you are clamping the work to the crosscut fence, then this won't be an issue, but hand-held work can move slightly during the cut and you may not be aware of it. A second pass (same setting) might clean it up.
Regards,
Ray Pine
End grain cuts take a fair amount of force to maintain full depth of cut
I agree and if you are trying to do a full cut that might be it. Are you using a zero clearance fence? You might try making the cut in 2-3 pases. Also, are you using a backer board to the piece being cut?
" There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow
Thanks everyone,My carpenter's square probably isn't, my stock might not be square, and it could be pulling away from the cutter. Also, I was cutting the stile cuts first. I did always use a test piece at the end of the cut to prevent tearout. I have tried to use square scraps for the same purpose, and used them also to hold the rail square. Maybe if I clamp the rail to this scrap piece, it will stay put, and square. Do you normaly disregard the miter guage on the router table?Thanks for the responses,JBD
JB,
Don't have a router table. But when I was coping the ends of door rails on the shaper, I used a crosscut-type sled to hold the rails. Set the shaper's fence parallel to the (squared) end of the sled, and as the Kiwis say, "Bob's yer Uncle"
Ray
Carpenter's squares are rarely square.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
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