Hi,
I’ve just finished putting the bookcase together. Now it’s time to plug the screw holes. I’ve had a difficult time trying to prevent the wood from “tearing out”.. not sure if that’s what you’d call it. I’m using a good quality counterbore/countersink bit. Am I better off using a drill press for the screw holes rather than a hand held drill. Would that fix the problem? Mabye the counterbore needs sharpening. Now when I fit the plugs I will have to putty over them to fill in the gaps. There must be some way to prevent this problem when counterboring into soft material like pine.
Wendy
Replies
If you want a clean hole for plugs use a sharp brad point or forstner bit first. A drill press is the best way if you can get your piece up there. Forstners are no good by hand. I use spade, paddle bits, on the job site. The ones with the spurs are good for getting a clean start, use a gentle feed. They can also be filed to fit your plugs just right. The combo drill, countersink, counterbore bits leave something to be desired.
Hi Hammer,
I don't own a drill press so that probably explains why I've had a problem with the Forstner bit. I think I'll try your suggestion and buy a few spade bits, brad point bits. So you're not an advocate for countersink/bore bits. I'm not either.
Wendy
Actually I use countersink combos almost every day but not for plugs. I have owned almost every brand. The flip style that Bob Villa advertises are useless to me. I like the Insty bit system but I use Chuck's tapered bits and sinks. I do a lot of large screws, 14 x 4" and larger. Most of whats available from Fuller and others are too small so I do it the old fashioned way, separate bits and countersinks. Tapered bits load up in the flutes with sawdust, get hot and break easily. Make sure you back them out and clean frequently. On your plugs, don't try to cut them off flush with a chisel in one bite. Just take a little at a time or they will most likely break off below the surface. I suspect that is your next step.
Hi hammer,
Thanks for the info. Think I'll order a couple of lipped brad point bits from LeeValley. Let me know what you think of these. I use mostly #8 screws and 1/2 inch wood plugs for most projects I build. I'm thinking of purchasing the 1/2 inch lipped brad point bit.
Let me know what you think of these LeeValley bits.
Wendy
hello again,
Have no idea why those pictures didn't upload. I'll try again.
I use Fuller HSS countersinks and plug cutters.
Hi George,
Just finished checking out the fuller countersinks, counterbore and bits. Have you ever used a stop collar? I've never tried them.
What do you think of these LeeValley countersinks?
Wendy
for what it's worth: I've never had a problem getting a clean hole using a hand held drill with a forstner bit. The bit must be sharp, and sharpening a forstner bit is a bit of a challenge.
I a standard bit, but brad points are more exact as far as bouncing around. I have had alot of luck putting the drill in reverse first. Seems to burnish down the top first. After the first 3/32 you can go forward. It is a touch thing. Too much pressure and it will feed itself too fast.
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