Replies

1. 
   TKanzler | Jan 25, 2003 01:28am | #1

   I hate to give the standard answer, but it's really called for here.  Check the current draw while it's running, with whatever blast gates are normally open when it pops.  If its over the nameplate value for the voltage you're using, that's your problem.  Have you been running it with more gates open than usual?  Is the voltage to your shop lower than usual?  Are there any other machines using the circuit, pulling down the voltage?  Does it start slower/stop quicker than usual (bad bearings)? 

   If current draw is below nameplate, it's possible the overload device has gone bad.  There's also a remote chance the motor has excessive dust in it.  Someone on another forum was complaining recently about a Jet motor that was packed with dust, and it too was TEFC.

   Be seeing you...

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 25, 2003 02:03am | #2

   The breaker on the side of the motor is 25 amp.  I just replaced it with a 20 amp breaker and it's running fine.  Just had it running for 30 minutes and nothing got hot, or even warm, for that matter.  DC is on it's own circuit and the voltage here is fine (121.7 V, no load).  Using same blast gates.  Only running a 1/2 hp lathe motor at the time on a separate circuit.   The components inside the Delta control box on the side of the motor are cheezy, at best. 

   I've already had to replace the on/off switch on my Delta midi-lathe (2 years old).

   Ya think 2 years of daily use is pushing it?   Tempted to just get another and write it off as a 'hand' tool.  I turn it on by hand!!!  :)

   A new motor cost the same as buying an entire new unit.   Recon they have a method here? Hewlett Packard sells printers dirt cheap, but makes a fortune on the replacement ink cartridges.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

1. 
   TKanzler | Jan 25, 2003 06:07am | #3

   It sounds like you found the problem and fixed it.  I feel your pain, regarding what a motor costs.  I need to replace the motor on my 12" Delta RAS.  $600+, and it's only 2 hp.  Single-phase is the cheaper one; 3-phase (which is on there now, but I can use either) is actually more costly, which goes against all logic.  And being a special motor, like all RAS's, there are no other options.  I'd bet they make more on that replacement motor than on an entire saw.  At least you can use a standard NEMA frame motor from any manufacturer if you ever need to replace the DC motor.Be seeing you...

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 25, 2003 12:39pm | #4

   Tom  -

   Not really.  The motor has a 3/4" keyed and tapered shaft and the end of the shaft is tapped for a bolt that holds the fan impellor on.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

2. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 25, 2003 10:02pm | #5

   Me again -

   What really hacks me off is the time required to mess with crap like this.  Probably cheaper to just buy another.

   Also, I didn't expect this with Delta.  I must say that the motor on this unit is truly a piece of junk.  The one on my Parks planer has lasted 40+ years and is still going strong. 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

1. 
   TKanzler | Jan 26, 2003 04:30am | #6

   I'm a little surprised about that motor being so crappy.  Delta has been sourcing motors from Marathon for quite a while now, and Marathon makes a competitive product, though yours may have been made by someone else.  The motor, by far I'm sure, is the highest cost item on a DC.  In such a competetive field (everyone makes DC's), a few bucks off on the motor would make a big difference.  Being a bit of a Deltoid myself (hell, I have a Delta wall clock hanging in my shop), I hate to see their quality slip, but I'm not so hopeless as to not buy from another manufacturer, if I thought I'd get more for my money.  Maybe when it burns out for good you should consider Oneida or Penn State for a small industrial strength cyclone.  

   But to be fair to Delta, someone on another forum was complaining recently about a Jet cabinet saw with a TEFC motor that was packed with sawdust.  It seems they (who ever makes motors for Jet over in Taiwan) left out the gaskets under the capacitor covers.  He never did come back with how he made out.......

   I'm glad you're back up and running.Be seeing you...

2. 
   Ken10thumb1 | Jan 27, 2003 08:51am | #7

   Just thought that I would chime in and tell you that I agree. I have the same DC and have had it for about the same time period.  Mine still runs OK but I have never been able to run it on 120 VAC.  It kept tripping the 20 Amp (dedicated circuit) breaker.  I called Delta and the local service rep told me that to order a new motor would take 6 weeks (or something like that)  I did have my supplier order a new motor for me (<1 week, Imagine that...)  Turns out that the new motor was not much better than the old one.  Rewiring it for 240 VAC solved the problem but it seems to me that a product listed for 120 volt operation should actually be able to run at that voltage.  Before any of you start questioning the wiring in my shop, I should tell you that I am an electrical engineer with a power electronics back ground and I know enough about motors to know that this one just plain poor quality.  I have a few pieces of Delta and NOT ONE of them has been without one sort of problem or another.  I will say that other than the DC, they have all been hobby grade products.  Makes me kind of hesitant to spend any real $$ on a Delta product.

   Ken

3. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 27, 2003 10:40pm | #8

   Thanks Ken for the moral support!

   1st, that motor is supposed to be TEFC, but it ain't cause the centrifugal switch is on the outside of the case.   2nd, the capacitors, on/off switch, and the circuit breaker (25 amp on mine) are about as cheaply made as I have ever seen.

   Quality components would cost them, what?  Maybe $10 more?  Why run the risk of permanently losing customers for the sake of saving $10?????  (designed by accountants)

   ps - i have a degree in EE (Ok State, 1965), but never really worked in electronics or power.  I migrated to the computer industry (software/systems design) right after school.

   Oh yeah, the original breaker on mine did not act like it was tripping due to high current.  Acted more like it was tripping because of a weak internal mechanism.  In other words, I think it just plumb wore out.  i.e. cheaply made. 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood