I do alot of sanding with my makita ROS. Way too often I find myself replacing the sanding pad as the hook and loop surface has weakened and won’t hold the sandpaper. Has anyone else encountered this and if so, is there an easier and less expensive solution than replacing the pad. Thanks in advance. PMM
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Replies
Pm, I too have the same problem with the porter cable sanders,and I buy the replacement pad or just buy a new sander. Have been looking at the new festool but not crazy about the price. Later Rickk
I had that problem with my PC. Bought a new pad (not very expensive if I remember right) and all is OK now.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Trouble is the little hooks that hold the pad are worn or melted. You have to replace the pad, either with a replacement from (your make of sander) or new velcro pad from Sears (thats where mine came from).
Is there any possibility that you press on the sander too hard during sander? Based on the "...or melted" comment above, it makes me wonder. Pressing would creat heat and doesn't help sanding any at all.
pmmatty
yes I am ashamed to admit I have the same problem with my Makita, and I haven't found any on-line source for replacement pads. F-G is right - the pad melts from pressing too hard. My problem was (is) using it to sand edges or surfaces other than straight flat and pressing it to hurry things up. Really got to use it the way it was intended - start and stop in contact with the surface.
Ditto Forestgirl's take. Putting too much pressure on the sander will definately ruin the hook and loop pad. I have seen it happen more than once. And sometimes after the offender has previously been told just what he is doing - sigh!
FYI: you will know when pressure is getting excessive when the pad and disc stop or slow spinning. In fact, when this occurs, sanding speed and efficiency suffer dramatically, negating the reason for the increased pressure in the first place.
ROS's are finishing tools. A light touch and patience is the key. Heavier stock removal is best accomplished with a belt or other sander.
Interesting. I've had a Porter Cable 333VSK for quite some time now, and the pad's grip is as tenacious as ever. But it's true that I never apply any downward pressure while sanding; I let the weight of the sander do the work.
-Steve
Thanks for all the input. Looks like maybe I have been using too much pressure without realizing it. PMM
I would think it has sometnin' to do with the dust.. I vacuum my saner after every use.. OK, so sometimes I still have problems but NOT alot.. And I have a L'Cheepo sander!
My DeWalt ROS is hooked up to a ShopVac while I'm sanding. Keeps the dust down, the sander clean and a cool tool.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Mine has a oval dust port and I'm to lazy to make an adaptor.. LOL...
My older DeWalt also has an oval outlet. I simply took a small ShopVac hose and chopped off the ridgid plastic end, made a small slit in the flexible hose, and slipped it over the port.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Try an old upright sweeper with the hose attachment. Much quiter and just enough vacuum to remove the dust but not so much that it sucks the sander into the work and slowing the random motion.
Also store the sander with a disc on it, saves wear and tear on the pad loops.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
those pad set replacements are ok if you have to do repairs now and then. if you are using them up quickly i would go to a supplier of velcro and hooked back materials. glue the longer and better "hooks" to the existing pad with some epoxy and get 3xs the life.
pmmatty,
I own two Mikita's (had three but a fall from 28 feet ontothe brickdriveway provided me with a parts machine ;-)
I do a massive amount of sanding with them and yes sometimes I just abuse the heack out of it.. A new pad is about $10. from the Mikita repair shop in town or I can wait untill they have some returns and a sale when I'll pick up a whole sander for under $25..
I have found out that on my DeWalt 5" ROS that by using an old Eurica upright sweeper with the hose attachment, The pad and sandpaper last much longer. The paper doesn't fill as much and that the sander runs a whole lot cooler.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Interesting...I have used my little 5" Bosch for years and never experienced this problem. I push down hard, I sand at the highest speed, I use it for polishing varnish, I sand epoxy as well as wood with it,...
The hook and loop is great. It's the dust bag that is bad.
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
Bosch sells an adapter to adapt the oval dust port to the factory catcher to a round port so that it will connect to a shop vac. Only about $5 but the shipping will run an additional $5 or more. Still worth it to not have the dust. A link to one supplier is below.
http://www.internationaltool.com/woodworking/tools/BOSRS006.html
Thanks! I'll check it out. I hate dust.
Fortunately I don't sand as much as I used to. I love a good hand-planed surface!
Hal
I prefer to use PSA sandpaper. I replace the pads on our sanders with PSA type pads. PSA sandpaper is cheaper especially if you buy the Rhynodiscs from http://www.industrailabrasives.com Better prices than Klingspor. We are a professional shop and it seems the hobby woodworkers are more likely to use the more expensive hook and loop. Are you folks aware of the price difference between PSA and hook and loop? How often do you change a H & L disc in the middle of a project to reuse it again. I pay $12.95 for 5" 5 hole 100 pk PSA paper versus $18 dollars for 5" 5 hole 100 pk hook and loop. Klingspor gets $26 -100 pk PSA and $36 - 100 pk H & L for similar sandpaper.
Hi Rick. I have an industrial account with Klingspor. I get 6" disks ,either psa or H&L for the same price. About 21 cents each. If you have a professional shop, you should be able to get an account there too. Good Luck, Bob
Personally I change discs often and reuse discs often. Makes running through all of the progressively finer grits quite easy and quick. IMHO PSA discs are no bargin when it comes down to saving time.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
PMM:
May be a heretic but how about using a scraper? I rarely use my porter-cable 6" ROS for much more than a final sanding and usually at 220 grit or better. It's used daily in my shop and it's close to 7 years old and still has the original pad. The comments about pressure are correct, let the weight of the tool do the work and definitely use dust collection if not just for the sander do it for your lungs.
As for scrapers and scraper planes, I usually get a surface that is smoother and cleaner with a scraper or scraper plane and typically in a shorter amount of time. I do a lot of veneer and inlay work and with a scraper I can control exactly how much material I'm removing and I don't get the smearing of a dark wood into the grain of a lighter wood. Play with it and see what you think.
As for replacment hook and loop materials I found some 9x12 inch sheets at an auto parts store a while back. No reason why you couldn't cut out a nice circle and then cut the dust vent holes.
Madison
Thanks for the thought but I make primarily chairs with absolutely zero flat surfaces. PMM
Bummer! Well it was a thought, try teh auto parts stores you may be able to find the sheets I mentioned
Madison
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