Replies

1. 
   jhausch | Oct 29, 2002 01:15pm | #1

   Gorilla Glue with acetone wipe down or rescorscinol is my recommendation

   Steelkilt Lives!
2. 
   jeffn7 | Oct 29, 2002 04:48pm | #2

   a second vote for gorilla glue.

   recently, I read that wiping down with acetone prior to glue up actually causes more oil in the wood to "wick" to the glue surface. I don't know what the data is to support this, but it did get me thinking. I suppose I'd still wipe down as I haven't had a problem with this method.

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Oct 30, 2002 03:34am | #3

   Jim/Jeff,

   Thanks for responses. Looks as though my experiences are similar to yours, so we'll go that way. Gorilla glue is a self-catalysing PVA (yellow glue), isn't it?

   Cheers,

   eddie

   Edited 10/29/2002 8:36:12 PM ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   UncleDunc | Oct 30, 2002 07:57pm | #6

   >> Gorilla glue is a self-catalysing PVA (yellow glue), isn't it?

   No, it is a moisture cured polyurethane. It cures by a chemical reaction and not by solvent evaporation like PVA glues.

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Oct 30, 2002 08:38pm | #7

   Hi Howie, Uncle Dunc and Steven,

   Thanks for the feedback.  As we are not US-based, I can only remember (vaguely) seeing an advert in a US mag for gorilla glue, and seeing it's colour.  Now I know what it is & can look for a higher grade over here as a probable match.

   Regarding the issue of wiping down joints, I have contacted our glue supplier.  Will let you know their technical rep's advice when I get it.

   Thanks and regards,

   eddie

1. 
   GregB126 | Oct 30, 2002 10:23pm | #8

   Eddie,

   How's it going?  If you haven't used polyurethane glue before, buy a small amount and do a test.  It foams up a lot, filling voids (which might be a positive).  The squeeze out also foams a lot, which can be a bit startling the first time you use it.  A little testing could inform you of how much is really necessary and how easy it is to use too much.  Also, wear gloves, as the stuff is very persistent on the hands and, as it moisture cures, it's impossible to wash off with soap and water....  I've used it on outdoor applications, but don't care for it for others.  It is interesting, though.  No experience with teak, but hoping the above is useful.

   Cheers,

   Greg

2. 
   DennisS | Oct 31, 2002 04:58am | #9

   As Uncle Dunc says, Poly glues like Gorilla are moisture cured and for especially dense dry material the directions even go so far as suggesting one side of the joint be moistened slightly just at glue-up time.

   Use sparingly!! This stuff is gap filling. Excess squeeze out will 'froth up' almost (but not quite) like the expansion foam you can buy to fill cracks in walls and such. My first experience I applied it in the same manner as I would tite bond and had a helluva mess on my hands! Literally on my hands, as well. Wear surgical gloves. I didn't have any adverse reaction to the glue on my skin, but the palms of my hands were more tan than any other part of my body the next day, even though I washed thoroughly when done.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

3. 
   UncleDunc | Oct 31, 2002 11:57pm | #11

   >> This stuff is gap filling.

   Joints need to fit very closely when using polyurethane glue. As Dennis says, it is gap filling, but the material in the gap is just polyurethane foam, a little harder than you get in a spray can, but with very little structural strength.

4. 
   DennisS | Nov 01, 2002 04:49am | #12

   > ...., it is gap filling, but ....

   It was rather interesting to see what happens with this stuff. I experimented building a double curved bent handrail section through the pitch change for my deck stairs. Some of the lams from the first bend+glueup weren't totally in contact - there were miniscule gaps in places between the laminations. On steaming, bending and gluing/clamping the resawn pieces around the horizontal form, one at a time, the poly glue would find these hairline cracks and seep through!

   Interesting but messy.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

5. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Nov 01, 2002 11:34pm | #13

   Hi Bim/Dennis/Greg,

   Thanks for the info. 

   When I spoke to our local technical rep, his recommendation was a polyurethane glue.  Regarding wipedown, he seemed to think it was unnecessary, but, better safe than sorry as he'd had a lot of his regulars using the method on teak or other oily woods, including some of the local eucalypts with a high sap content.

   Cheers,  eddie

6. 
   DennisS | Nov 02, 2002 06:21am | #14

   Greets, Eddie;

   This is not from first hand experience, just second hand from the woodworker guys/gals on a recent project.

   The task at hand involved glueing up lots of resinous exotics like chechen and canary. They opted for epoxy (West Systems) as a fail safe approach. How this applies to teak,....dunno.... but the consensus on the job was, if in doubt, epoxy.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

   Edited 11/1/2002 11:22:57 PM ET by DENNIS02

7. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Nov 04, 2002 01:56am | #15

   Thanks again Dennis.

   Appreciate your input/help.

   Cheers,

   eddie

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 30, 2002 07:08pm | #4

   I am not a fan of polyurethane glues (Gorilla, ie)for a number of reasons but it does work well for gluing up oily woods like teak used in an outdoor (non-submerged) application. In the shop I was involved with, we built many marine interior and exterior items. For interior items we frequently used yellow PVA or slow set epoxy. For exterior items we mostly used epoxy.

   That said, the issue of using acetone or lacquer thinner to promote better adhesion has, in recent years, become somewhat controversial. We always wiped down our joints with acetone (more to follow) but in recent years both adhesives reps and coating reps have taken the position that as long as the milling was within 24 hours, no special treatment of the joint surfaces is necessary.

   I always chuckle when I see Norm brush acetone onto a joint. Brushing on acetone--or lacquer thinner--will not accomplish anything but momentarily thinning the oil. It does not remove it and once dry the acetone evaporates, all the oil is still there. If you are going to use acetone, it should be brushed on then wiped off with a rag or paper towel changing to a clean face with every wipe. Otherwise, you are just moving it around and not having any real affect.

4. 
   Shepherd1800 | Oct 30, 2002 07:52pm | #5

   Wiping the joint with any solvent will only encourage the extractives in oily woods to migrate to areas of less concentration, where it was wiped down.  Mill the material and glue it up.  You might consider using hide glue, either hot or the ready to use stuff (which does have an expiration date).  It is plenty strong, will hold the joint tight, doesn't suffer from creep, is easy on tools, doesn't clog sandpaper, is easy to clean up, washes out of your clothes and in the event of a mistake, can be reversed with heat and or water.

    

   Stephen Shepherd

5. 
   gunnee | Oct 31, 2002 05:17am | #10

   there is a web site on what to use for gluing you may want to try..

   The site is thistothat.com   have fun and make alot of dust