What is the correct technique for face flattening a board. It seems so simple. If a board is twisted or warped and you want to flatten it should you put a lot of downward pressure on the board or should it just slide across the top of the jointer. If you push the board down isn’t that similar to what a planer does? How slick should the jointer bed be? Is wax applied to the top of the bed a good way to decrease the friction between the bed and the board being jointed.
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I wax beds constantly if jointing all day. I also wax all my machine tables. Best to find a text book on how to stand and such but basically you balance the twisted board and feed it with a hand over hand motion. You shouldn't have to push down any harder than you need to feed the board. Once you get the board on the outfeed table all hand movement stays on the outfeed table. I've always thought the ultimate jointer table would be like an air hockey table. It can be deceptively simple. Bad technique is often a common thing. I think of what I had to deal with to show a newbie how to joint and it takes a bit. Even more complicated with a board longer than the bed not too mention on ho to read the grain.
1. Read the grain, and put a check mark the way you want it to run.
2. Run it concave side down, with very light pressure. You will need several passes to produce enough flat to run it through the planer. You don't have to make the side totally flat on the jointer, just so the planer will produce parallel sides.
3. When edge jointing, with a small piece, hook your right pinkie over the fence and guide the wood with the left hand. As your hands near the blades, move your left hand AROUND the guard and push again. Keep aware of that pinkie over the fence, and place it far above the guard and back on the fence on the outfeed table. That way, your hands don't come near the blade. I use paddles for face jointing, but not for edge.
I can't use paddles. Too slow and inefficient. Some of the Euro guards and an older american guard allow you to slide the board underneath the guard so if you slip you still hit the guard. The pork chop guard is the least expensive and better than nothing but not the best by far. I've used those little rubber finger tips they used to use in banks to count the money to keep the wood from slipping.
I agree on having the concave side down.
Think you meant to direct your reply to the other guy!
Yes, I responded in the wrong window, sorry.
I didn't like paddles either, except those Grripers. They work really well on many boards, when spit on fingertips does not work.
Jointer guards are ridiculous. The pork chop ones are better when edge jointing, since the blade is never exposed, but the Euros are better when face jointing. They are both too easy to slip though and get your hand wrecked. My old Inca was junk, and when combined with inexcusable sloppy technique ( I then got a lesson in jointer use) led to my learnign how fingertips grow back. My new jointer is a Felder, with a much more robust guard. The idea is to guide the piece with your hands, sliding the hand OVER the guard with the board UNDER the guard. No way do my hands go that close--if a few things go wrong, if the plastic guard shatters, too many bad things can happen.
http://www.osha-slc.gov/Publications/Mach_SafeGuard/gif/mach31.gif
This was a great guard but the company went out of business a number of years ago.
It looks similar to the Felder in some ways, although the Felder has not spring. It is connected to a pretty sturday aluminum bar and is adjusted with two beefy adjustment screws, and can take a good whack. The Inca covered the blade, but was held by two spindly little arms that did nothing at all except get in the way.
Does anyone have any suggested reading here
in the forums or on the internet for more
information on this subject?
What is the right/wrong way to stand?
How do you read grain?
How much should be fed to the outfeed table
before you change positions?
Can't think of any book offhand except Ian Kirby's book and it's pit of print. Come to think of it Tage Frid had a good jointer lesson.
Basically you stand close to the center of the jointer and your feet shouldn't really move. It's your upper body, arms and hands that move for the most part.
Best way to read the grain in the beginning is from the edge.
Exagerated view but the angle should be like this \\ or tear out will result. Tearout can't be avoided for many pieces. The new insert heads pretty much eliminate having to read the grain as it eliminates tear out for the most part.
Did anyone mention starting you cuts in the middle of the board. I find it easier to get rid of half of the the twist from each end that way than starting from one end.Of course cutting any parts out to a little over-size will yield better thickness than working with a big board that will be cut into little parts.
I have a 6" Yorkcraft, about a year old. About 2 months ago, while trying to stop the table from rusting, I took the guard off. I needed to use it the next day, and tried it without the guard. First, looking at that thing spinning, really made me aware of the danger, like watching the blade on my tablesaw. Second, itsure is easier to use the jointer now. What sort of wax works best on the tables? Help?
I use Johnsons Paste Wax or Butchers Wax, whichever is at hand. Both are available at Home Despot. I use an old piece of scotchbrite to rub it onto the metal surface, allow 15 minutes for it to dry and then buff it off with an old t-shirt or a piece of paper towel. Unless I'm using the machine for some heavy work-load, or the humidity is very high, once every two weeks works for me. Many woodworkers say to avoid automobile waxes as they contain silicon. Silicon will give you problems when it comes time to apply your finish.
SawdustSteve
I keep a rool of Waxed Paper (that I steal from the Kitchen) in the shop. Tear off a piece and keep it in your apron pocket. An quick rub with the Waxed Paper before using any piece of equipment keeps things sliding extremly well. This is not a substitue for regular waxings though.
Great ideas, I think it will really help. Another problem I had(I have an 8" Delta X5 jointer) was that the blade quard was wound really tight. That is the spring inside of it would make it very difficult to get the board to go across the bed. I loosened it up and now works much better and the guard still slides over the knives, just with a lot less pressure.
Kenney66
Proper Jointer techniques..
I wet the board ALOT.. Drive my old 1992 Dogde on it with the front tire and wait a week!
how do you wet it? Get a half barrel and invite the boys over?
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