Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jul 03, 2001 08:29am | #1

   *
   Paul, since you asked...after having read your question a few times to make sure that I understand it. The thoughts I have are all in the form of questions. So my only advice at this juncture, is that you describe the design details more fully, particularly the base, even a rough sketch posted here would go a long way.

   Simply as a comment; your project does sound interesting and I am curious about your reasoning behind the use of plywood as a substrate for the carcass and the method used in applying the Acacia veneer.
   veneer.

   Dano

1. 
   Ron_Brese | Jul 03, 2001 02:19pm | #2

   *b From the Workshop of Ron BresePaul, I have used this same method myself. As a general rule if the sides are 1" thick I would want the dowels to penetrate into the base twice that amount or 2 inches. Therefore the dowel would be 3 inches long. Drill the hole slightly deeper than the required depth to allow room for the excess glue. I would not attempt to hide the dowel from the outside. I would clamp the pieces together and drill thru from the outside. I would split the exposed end of the dowel and drive a wedge into the split to expand it and give it real retention strength. This method would probably be stronger if it were solid wood construction, but obviously you had some nice fiqure in the Acacia that you were trying to maximize. You could also drill and cross pin these joints just for a bit more piece of mind. If the dowel is a snug fit in the hole, make sure you drive the dowel all the way in without stopping. If you drive part way and then let it sit for just a little while it may never move again. Also make sure that when you expand the dowel with the wedge that you expand it across the width of piece. Expanding it vertically could blow out theedge of the plywood.

1. 
   paul_carroll | Jul 04, 2001 04:31am | #3

   *Dano, the top and base are the same size, approx. 19" by 58", Both are good quality 3/4" ply veneered with oak on one side and black acacia on the show side. They overhang the carcase about 1/2" on the ends and 1/4" on the sides. I mostly applied the veneer using a hot iron once the pva glue on the veneer and substrate was dry. I used ply rather than mdf because I feared the latter would be heavy and awfully hard to move. The carcase is divided into 3 compartments extending from the base to the top.The middle compartment, 13" across, is open for display with one shelf. The side compartments, about 21" across, will each house three drawers, and be fronted by frame and panel sliding doors, like those described by Seth Janofsky for his oak sideboard in FW No. 137. The frame will be solid black acacia and I am thinking of sitka spruce for the panel, perhaps with a few acacia strips forming a simple geometric pattern on the panel. Now for the sides. There are four of them, the two ends and the two pieces separating the display compartment from drawer copartments on either side. The sides are also 3/4" ply veneered in the same way. Their vertical edges have a faux leg of black acacia, about 1 1/8" square.I want to attach the sides to the base using dowels. The carcase will be reinforced by oak stretchers connected to runners for the drawers. So, what size dowels should I use? Thanks so much for the interest and help. Paul

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jul 04, 2001 04:50pm | #4

   *Paul, Wow, soundsb realnice. I do know the piece in which you refer. I try to never make assumptions, you know what they say.:) I see that my assumption that the chest has four sides was correct, though. Your question has already been answered. Have a great 4th.Dano