Replies

1. 
   Lightman | Jun 14, 2005 07:57am | #1

   Hey buster,

   Welcome 1st off. Just lurking tonight and saw your post.  I'll give it a stab.

   Not sure how rough is rough? If rough cut right out of the sawmill, then I would start with your hand plane and get one edge flat and true. That will give you a true edge to run against the TS fence. That should give you your width with 2 sides (edges) surfaced.

   You have a couple of options for the thickness. You can get one side flat with your hand plane, then run it through your planer and get the other side finished. That would give you S4S (surfaced four sides).

   If the board is fairly flat, then try it through your planer. Take very small bites. Just remember if it's bowed or twisted this won't work. Old saying is crap in/crap out. The down side ( part of board turned down in the planer) of the board is suppose to be flat before running thru your thickness planer. The rollers will follow the board so you will have a mirror finish of the bad side. I have done it in the past with mixed results. That was before a got a jointer. 

   Get some scrap and try and see what you come out with.

   Good luck and let us know what you learn.

   Jimmy

   as always I wish you enough

   
   

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   Edited 6/14/2005 12:59 am ET by Jimmy

2. 
   BG | Jun 14, 2005 02:19pm | #2

   buster05,
   I just want to add something to Jimmy's post.
   If your going to try to flatten long boards you'll need a jig for the planer..a flat surface maybe 5-6' long that you can use in various ways to help remove cup and twist from the boards. A torsion box is probably the best for the jig.
   Personally, I always flatten first..don't like running a board through the TS with bow or twist...

   Ps. there was a video on here of a fancy torsion box..it still may be available to view... http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt095.asp

   
   

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   Edited 6/14/2005 7:28 am ET by BG

3. 
   Napie | Jun 14, 2005 04:39pm | #3

   Always try to cut the rough board into sections that are sized for the parts you are making, (this is where a cut list comes in handy), that way you do not have to flatten an 8” wide board if the pieces are 3” wide.  It’s a lot easier to hand plane the narrower stock prior to running it through the planer. Also, always flatten the face FIRST and thickness it prior to edge jointing, it is safer. Lastly, save up for a nice 6” jointer, it will make life easier.

4. 
   Lightman | Jun 17, 2005 05:54am | #4

   BG and napie are totally right. Flatten 1st, then joint/edge. Guess I had a brain f4rt, knew better.

   thanks guys.

   Jimmy

   as always I wish you enough