Replies

1. 
   GHR | Jun 11, 2005 07:26am | #1

   In my shop I would machine plane the wood (both sides) to thickness and then use the table saw to get straight edges d the correct width.

   But I buy wood that is reasonably flat with reasonably straight sides.

   I expect you will need to rough saw to rough size, hand plane one face of your board reasonably flat, machine plane the second face, machine plane the first face, hand plane edges.

2. 
   KeithNewton | Jun 11, 2005 07:31am | #2

   Buster. I don't know if you want to do all of your prep work with hand -tools or if it is just a room thing, but here is what I often recommend for friends like you.

   Makita makes a 6 3/4" power-plane that is great for the small shop. My shop is 4000 sq. ft. and I have a 12" jointer, but I still use this tool a lot. It is out on a job-site right now, and I have had it for about 25 years and have not had to do anything to it in all of that time.

   The best price that I have found is here. http://www.tools-plus.com/mak1806b.html
   I have sub-jaws bonded to the vise of a couple of my workbenches, so I can clamp it in and use it like a stationary jointer. However when I sometimes get really big boards that are too large even to handle on a 12" jointer, I will take the tool to the work, rather than wrestle a huge board.

   The front knob is also the depth adjuster, so you can change the depth of cut while passing along the work, and it has the capacity of taking 2 mm per pass. This is a serious tool, and is way above its smaller cousins in the 3" size.
   I highly recommend it. In fact I would choose it over any 6" staionary jointer on the market. Keith

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/11/2005 12:33 am ET by rootburl

3. 
   Midnight | Jun 12, 2005 03:15am | #3

   cross cut the board to get it closer to final desired size; if you intend to use the thickness planer you'll need to allow for snipe.

   hand plane one face till its free of cup, twist and bow; use winding sticks and long straight edges to gauge your progress regularly..

   use your circular saw guided with a straight edge to trim one outer edge; refine the edge with hand planes till the edge is square and level... use that edge against the table saw fence to rip the 2nd edge; hand plane the edge to remove the saw marks..

   decision time; either machine or hand plane the 2nd face; if you're hand planing, scribe a line around all 4 edges gauging from the first face. Plane down to a hair above the line by working predominantly across the grain; working in from the edges should leave a crown in the centre of the board that's easily removed when you switch to working along the grain.

   Finish by working with a fine tuned plane (set for a fine cut, corners of the blade clipped) gradually working down to final thickness... done properly you can retire your sander... job's done...

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   buster1 | Jun 12, 2005 05:11am | #4

   Thanks, Mike
   The biggest problem was figuring out how to get one flat surface to use as a reference. Your process makes the most sense.

1. 
   BG | Jun 12, 2005 01:29pm | #6

   buster05,
   Actually, the best advice you've gotten so far is from George...buy straight flat wood. As a relative newbie I give myself a break and often buy S2 or 3S ..it is well worth the $.25 per foot differential..no snipe to cut off and I can see the grain.
   That said, I work a lot of donnage(mostly 4x6x48) into usuable pieces and there are some simple aides to help the process. I always rough flatten first with some hand plane work and then put the wood on a flat plank and run it through the planner(my planner's infeed and outfeed are supported with flip ups), removing the plank and flipping the piece I run it through till parrallel.
   Usually there is a slight bow along one edge of the wood. I put a straight edge (6' piece of extruded aluminum) against the fense and run it through the TS, flip the wood and run the other side through. I then let it sit for a few weeks....check it and work it with planes before using...
   Lately, I've been quarter sawing the donnage on the bandsaw after processing and have gotten some nice wood...

   Edited 6/12/2005 6:32 am ET by BG

2. 
   Midnight | Jun 12, 2005 03:56pm | #7

   Buster... the secret to it.. if there is one... is in checking your progress. It's the easiest thing in the world to plane shavings off a board... takes care and attention to plane them from the right places to give the desired result...

   Take your time, keep your blades sharp and be methodical... the rest is nothin but elbow grease n sweat...Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   philip | Jun 12, 2005 05:12am | #5

   .....if you intend to use the thickness planer you'll Need To Allow For Snipe."
   AyeYaeYaeYae, laddae, are you by any chance actually implying that snipe is inevitable ????
   Or is it that hitherto blind allegiance to the use of hand planes is beinf corrupted?
   By the way, I am expecting a reply from Patrick Leach about that Record#730.
   I think you have been on leave for too long.

1. 
   Midnight | Jun 12, 2005 03:59pm | #8

   AyeYaeYaeYae, laddae, are you by any chance actually implying that snipe is inevitable ????

   All I'm saying is exactly what I wrote... make allowance for it... if it happens then you've laready compensated for it... if it doesn't... so much the better...

   I think you have been on leave for too long.

   Leave..?? I've been back at work all week.. 12 hour shifts too... somebody has to get oil ashore yea..??Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun