Replies

1. 
   PSeverin | Jul 14, 2011 02:43pm | #1

   The answer depends on what tools you have.  If you just have a table saw the size you can re saw is limited maybe 6 or 7 inches.  If you have a big band saw you can get what ever you want.  I've found I've had more success re-sawing on a table saw by not cutting the board in two and using a hand saw to part the boards.  There isn't much clean-up work left  to be done.

   Cutting a thick board is no more work than cutting a 1 inch board and your left with more material.  But if like 1/2" boards why not think of 3/8 or 5/16" thick re-sawn boards.   And if you re-saw one inch material your left with those intriguing 1/8" thick material.

   If you have a planner you already know you can get any depth board you want.   Woodworking waste a lot of materials and poplar is half the price of most of the material.

   Finally you could order 1/2" boards from someplace like Rockler.  

   Peter

2. 
   Frozen | Jul 15, 2011 12:13pm | #2

   resawing may lead to warping

   Resawing may lead to warping, depending on how the wood was dried and how it has been stored.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jul 16, 2011 08:34am | #3

   How many drawers are we talking about? Utility work or finer furniture? Large drawers or small? Where do you get your lumber and what is commonly available?

   Most hardwood suppliers predominately carry 4/4 with some 8/4 in my area. Other sizes may be available but in limited quantities and species. Sometimes you can find 1/2" at places like Rockler or online retailers but at a premium price. Otherwise, I and all the commercial shops I've worked in plane down 4/4. Yes, you fill the dust collector. Others have said what often happens when resawing but, a couple small drawers may be OK, if the price and labor make sense.

4. 
   timhorchler | Jul 22, 2011 11:00am | #4

   Thanks for your thoughts

   Thanks to all with comment.  I guess it all boils down to a number of factors:  how much wood I need, what I have on the shelf, time and money.  I have a large band saw and a 12" planner so I have options.  Just hurts to see sawdust that might be better used as a board.  

   I resawed in this case from 5/4.  For this project Ray helped with advice on the joiner page.  I plan on posting pictures soon.  Only a few mistakes but have been able to to recover in some way.

   Tim

1. 
   user-64052 | Jul 22, 2011 12:57pm | #5

   If you plan far enough ahead

   when you resaw and can put the boards back order and can bring them together(the bowing) with clamp(I then run a filament tape around them to keep them together)  and then set them aside to aclimatise for a period of time. in a small shop you can do this.

   ron

1. 
   CedarGroves | Jul 23, 2011 11:36am | #6

   Mill to rough size a few days before hand

   I always mill my parts to rough size and sticker the pile a few days before I will need them, sometimes longer depending on what the moisture content is. It seems that no matter how dry the material is at full width, you will get some movement after milling/planing down to your desired thickness, depending on your local climate. Another consideration is how the wood is cut from the log as quartersawn wood will move differently than flatsawn stock - wood expands and contracts along the annular rings which is to say the rings will try to "straighten out" as the wood dries.

   The reason I chose a bandsaw for my first stationary tool over a tablesaw was to have the ability to re-saw lumber and veneer first, as well as having some rip capacity second. In my area, I would break the bank if I had to rely on getting my 1/2" or 3/8" stock pre milled from the yard - even in poplar its much cheaper to re-saw your own.

   Its not really a big deal as long as you do a little planning and give yourself some extra room to accomodate planing down to final thickness after stickering.