Replies

1. 
   Glaucon | Jan 31, 2006 08:13am | #1

   I'd start with 4/4 and mill it (in two stages) to 3/4. Most of the face frames I've done are 3/4- you could size up to 4/4 if that's what you  want- but it seems a bit on the thick side to me. Go to a cabinet show room and get some ideas...

   I would not advise starting with pre-milled 1" stock.  It is very likely that the stock will have some warp and twist in it- and this would be fatal for a face frame.  By milling the lumber yourself in two stages and stickering it for a week between, you will end up with very flat, true boards to make your face frames. This will keep the cabinets and the doors in square, which is key.

   Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   JFK | Feb 01, 2006 12:17am | #3

   Thanks for the advice. The more I read here the more I learn!

2. 
   notDusty | Jan 31, 2006 10:39am | #2

   Hi JFK ,

                Some hardwood suppliers sell hardwood that has been surfaced with an abrasive planer or other surfacing machines . A lot of the  hardwood sold to cabinet shops for face frames and doors is 13/16" . After wide belt 3/4" .The stock is clean in FAS grades and ready to rip .  

               Thicker would be better than thinner , as far as netting less then 3/4"

                                                  good luck       dusty

3. 
   wchips | Feb 02, 2006 06:50pm | #4

      Hi

     A lot of hardwood suppliers will what they call   hit and miss planing. That is 4/4 stock that run through the planer once on both sides. thus you end up with stock 15/16'' thick. Cut your peces {styles and rails} run them over the jointhe th get a flat surface on one side then run them through the thicknes planer flat side agenst the planer table to 13/16'' thick assemble. then you have about 1/16'' to play with when sanding.

                                  Have a nice day Lee

1. 
   JFK | Feb 03, 2006 07:14am | #5

   Thanks for the info. I'll check with my supplier.