OK, I’ve just drug great uncle Marshall’s horse drawn farm wagon out the barn and am going to take it a couple of miles up the road to a water powered mill where it will reside on the platform scales for display and demonstration purposes http://www.stockdalemill.org/
I’ve cleaned it out and hosed it off – it still bears the original paint, tho things are getting fragile – I’m thinking a coat of boiled linseed oil over the whole unit might be a good idea – give a new wear surface, discourage pp beetles, minimize seasonal moisture fluctuations…
comments? suggestions?
Replies
BLO or a real Tung Oil. Only other suggestion would be a satin spar varnish or Waterlox Satin to retain its older look, both thinned down some for light protection w/o adding too much of a film.
Dont let it sit outside :)
David,
Be aware that boiled linseed oil is not going to be removeable once it sets up. From a conservation standpoint, this is not a good thing. Linseed oil never truly cures hard, so it will continue to attract dirt for years to come; it gets darker and darker with time.
I'm not aware of any bug repellant qualities, and it for sure will not offer resistance to moisture transfer.
If you are looking for something to brighten up the color, try petroleum jelly. It's a (very) soft wax, and so is easily removeable.
Best bet is indoor storage, of course.
Regards,
Ray
I have used several coats of wipe on varnish to protect old paint.
With all due respect I cannot believe petroleum jelly would be a good idea for ANYthing.
Gretchen,
Actually, petroleum jelly is a pretty benign substance. It will add gloss and depth to a dry, crusty painted surface, just a light once over is all it takes. And it is easily removeable, with mineral spirits. Just like paste wax. Granted it gives only cosmetic improvement, but it'll do no harm.
If you change your mind a year from now, how would you remove the wipe on varnish, without removing some paint also?
I use petroleum jelly as a rubbing lubricant with steel wool, when rubbing out lacquer. Works good. Lots of other uses, too.
Q: What did the new bridegroom buy two jars of petroleum jelly for?
A: $2.98 a jar.
thanks for the feedback - -
first, let me reassure everyone the wagon will be kept inside (except for an occasional roll-out), in a better enviroment than it has spent the last 50 years - main concern surrounds keeping the spring seat (not pictured) from walking off - chain it on and lock it, I guess - have to drill a hole tho - -
second, I consider this more of a maintainance issue rather than a 'conservation' or 'preservation' issue - - the wagon, while an interesting unrestored original, is not particularly rare or valuable - this ain't a 18th century highboy -
re: boiled linseed oil vs powder post beetles - - it is film forming, making egg laying sites less attractive - not a cure-all, but part of a strategy - I may well spray the wagon down with Lorsban 4EC - that's a pretty good cure - - the boilded linseed oil film will also moderate moisture exchange - the inside of the wagon box (poplar sides, pine deck) are raw, rough, and battered from years of use - it cries to me for something....
the petroleum jelly advice is interesting, I'm going to do a little more research - -
...the observation 'it will change the appearance for the worst'... I guess a matter of opinion - - when hosing the dust off, the water on the paint revived the color and brought out detail, most would agree that the appearance was improved - from experience, I know that BLO would pop the color - I'm happy to have the observations about the long term 'darker and darker' - -
anyway, getting it rolled on the trailer and up the road to the mill is the next order of business...
thanks, and if anyone has anything to add, please feel free - "there's enough for everyone"
About the best resin for long-term conservation is acrylic. Virtually everything else yellows or cannot be removed. Oil of any sort is not the best choice for conservation. Tung is much better than linseed, but it still does have some color. A simple conservation-quality finish is Acryloid B72 acrylic resin in acetone. Not really durable, but it doesn't need to be. B67 is a little softer and soluble in mineral spirits. A better choice for metal parts. The resin is made by Rohm & Haas. Available from conservation suppliers or woodfinishingsupplies . Spray a light coat and it will pop the color and texture. Really water-clear but not too glossy. Can be removed with solvents should it ever be necessary and it will discourage insects a little and protects metal against rust. Costs about $10 a pound. 1 pound per gallon cut is sprayable. 4 pound cut is more like Duco cement. Can also be used as an adhesive. Museums use it for that purpose. Comes apart easily when you want it to come apart.
Do not put any kind of a finish over the paint, it will change the appearance for the worst and the new and old finish will still degrade in a matter of a few years if it is outdoors.
The wagon has survived this long through benign neglect, avoid the impulse to "save" it. Your intentions are good, but a lot of beautiful old equipment has had its best features destroyed by just what you are contemplating.
For the moment, the simplest way to preserve the wagon is to place it under cover and out of direct sunlight and it will last just about forever with only minor degradation. Find another, less valuable, wagon to place on the scales if they are outdoors.
If you are worried about the survival of the wagon, contact a preservation specialist, at a museum that handles similar equipment, before you consider doing anything more. Your state historical society, or a similar organization, probably has resources you can tap into for help and information.
John W.
I read you original post and was going to suggest exactly what John W. recommends: Do nothing until you talk to a couple of people who know something about preservation. I would guess your state historical society will have someone who can give you some expert advice.
This is a nice antique wagon, and it would be a shame to slather something on it before talking to someone who has some real credentials in the area of preservation.
Good luck ...........
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