I’m on my sixth set of hand cut dovetails and am feeling very proud. The first ones looked like I cut them with an axe, but progress has been swift. One thing I learned very quickly is that an offset saw (the reversible handle kind) is very ‘different’ to use. Once I picked up a straight saw it’s been nothing but up.
I’m building a key box for work and am using it for practice. I might even get paid for it if it looks good enough to charge for.
Unfortunately, I do have a question. Can I shape the joined corners with a router? Nothing fancy, just a corner rounding bit or edge bead. I don’t see any reason why not as the joint is 3/4″ deep but …
Also I’m learning why it’s called Hard Maple, and that it’s interesting that a tool will be sharp enough to lift hairs but won’t cut wood. The honing practice alone makes me think I should be paying the company for the lessons.
Anyway, I just wanted to tell someone who can truly understand the sense of pride and accomplishment I’m feeling. I’m sure I’ll be back in a couple days asking what went wrong, but for now I’ll ride the wave so to speak.
Thanks for listening. Yay me!
Replies
awesome.......... This is the stuff that I really like to hear.
Outstanding!
Not only does practice make perfect, but perfect practice makes perfect. In other words, the better you get, the better you get at it!
You can probably rout an edge of some kind but cut the cross grain first, carefully, and then the long grain to clean up any tear out.
Well done! (It's not called rock or hard maple for nothing!)
Kell
Edited 1/23/2004 9:37:51 AM ET by Kell
It's also the little things you learn like scratch awls make nice precise lines in hardwood but really tear up the soft stuff and using a chisel wider than the joint face reduces rounding. I know this is all old hat to most of you but it's really fun when it's new! Thanks for taking the time to respond.
15 Broad
Congrats on the DT's....
If you round the corners with a router 1/16" there should be no problem. I would back the ends with another piece of stock to prevent any tear-out when that bit comes off the finish. That is about the only critical point.
For small round-overs like that I use a $15 slick plane. One pass and it's done without router set-up. 20 seconds and all four corners are rounded off. Just something to consider down the road.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Sarge,
What's a $15 slick plane?
Alan - planesaw
Alan
http://www.highlandhardware.com
Go to the plane section and have a look. It is about 7" or 8" long. Wooden and can be used with two different blades. One for a slight round-over and one for a slight camfer. There is a groove in the bottom of the sole that you place on the edge you are shooting. The iron (blade) is located in the middle of the groove and rounded over and you get a round-over with one pass. Same with a camfer. Very simple little plane and you could make one without much difficulty.
I don't leave a lot of pure square edges, so this little jewel saves a bunch of set-up time with a router. Pick it up and place the groove on the edge and it's a done deal.
It's magic... ha.. ha...
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Sarge,
Thanks. I like the simplicity.
Alan - planesaw
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