As I posted earlier with no response- I recently was given an antique piano. It is in excellent shape. Except that there doesn’t seem to be a protective surface finish on it. The wood is walnut. It’s so perfect at first look I thought it was solid walnut. I was told later and after closer inspection found out it is veneer. The veneer is perfect It was once a player piano but the player guts have been removed. Tone and tune is near perfect. My only complaint is the I think it needs some sort of finish. A warm soft glow. Nothing shiny or thick looking. Thought of danish oil, boiled linseed oil or satin poly thinned 50/50 with turpentine wiped on. The piano manufacturer is M. Shultz ? Anyone got any suggestions. I think this piano can be a prize with a little work. Sorry for the long post. Thanks alot Richard
Replies
I would first check reference books to find out what most 'older' pianos were originally finished with. That would give you a good place to start. I would tend to go with a thinnned coat of orange shellacto bring out the highlights of the walnut followed by a thinned coat of white shellac. Now that everything is sealed, one or two more coats of white shellac, with the last coat rubbed down with 4/0 steel wool and paste wax. (yes, I would steel wool between coats to level off the surface.) The nicest part of using shellac is that if, at some later date you decide to change the finish, it is easily removed or just de-waxed and another finish applied over it.
SawdustSteve
Rick,
Have you had a professional look at your piano? I mention this because pianos are usually good for only about 100 years..the key word there is usually...
Rick:
I can't help you with your choice of finish, but if you are interested, here is a bit about M. Schulz Company.
Mathias Schulz opened shop in Chicago in 1869. He bought out his two partners in 1876. After growing, the company was incorporated as M. Schulz Company in 1889 with his son Otto as the vice-president. Pianos and organs were a specialty.
Mathias Schulz was born in Germany, apprenticed as a cabinet maker at age 14, and moved to London to raise money to come to America. He learned the trade of piano making while in London. "...Schulz had overtaxed himself in an attempt to satisfy ambition and passed away in 1899 at the age of 57."
The above information came from Pianos and Their Makers, by Alfred Dodge, (originally published in 1911).
I hope this helps or is at least of some interest to you.
Take care,
Greg
Rick forget about using some antique finish. Embrace improvement and use modern finishing technology. Here is what I'd use; 25% refined linseed oil (from art supply dealers) 75% Minwax polyurethane (gloss). Mix these ingredients and handrub into the cleaned smoothed surfaces until they begin to solidify. Then let it dry for two days and recoat the same way. This makes a great thin clear finish that has pretty good wear resistance too.
rick,
I agree with sawdust steve.. for several reasons. first evan a finishing dolt like me can do a decent job with laquer and if you screw up it's no big deal to start over and wind up with a fabulous finish worthy of an old piano..
I love the depth and richness of a laquer finish.. then if you really want to carry it to the final degree, french polish it..
I've been using an oil finish recently that really looks exceptional on walnut. It's called "Tried and True," and it's available in 3 versions: 1) Danish Oil--polymerized linseed oil, with no heavy metals or nasty solvents added; 2) Oil & Wax--adds some beeswax, which provides a bit more body and a nice antique look; 3) Oil & Varnish--builds a little quicker (2 coats is enough) and gives a subtle satin sheen. If you want more of a film finish, you can still use the Danish oil to deepen and pop out the grain, then finish with (another personal favorite) Bartley's wipe-on gel varnish. If you go with shellac, consider a retarder so it doesn't dry too fast.
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