Push stick & feater board plans
Just started woodworking again, last time was in high school. My wife let me purchase alot of new equipment. I’m looking for plans for push sticks, feather boards, and other safety type projects to build. I’m a firefighter/paramedic and don’t want to become my own patient.
Replies
Firewood,
Congratulations !
I use Norm's (old yankee workshop) safety appliances. He may have plans on his web site, I'm not sure. His feather boards and push sticks have served me well. There have been numerous articles in the magazines but you can also grab a book form the library and get some ideas as well. good luck
Wise man. For me, pushing devices are like pencils: There should always be one within reach when you need it.
I use push sticks mostly on my table saw and router table. They are basically a stick with a notch in the end to fit over the end / corner of the board being pushed. They should be something that is quick and easy for you to make because you saw right thru them and they don' t last too long. I like a push stick to have enough length so that my hand is well clear of the blade. Many I've seen are too short for me. Usually I like a lump or wide place in the stick so that by feel, I can tell the difference in the handle and the business end, that way I know by touch when I've got my hand in the right place. And the wide part of the business end should be long enough such that you can recut the notch a few times.
Sometimes you'll need a pushing device that also holds the piece down to the table. You'll need some length over the board being cut for sufficient hold down.
A feather board is merely a board with an angle cut on the end - usually 25 to 35 degs from square and with a series of uniform slots cut a couple or three inches into the end. I clamp mine down with to the table with c clamps or hand screws. When cutting the slots, you'll need to figure out a method that makes all the feathers uniform. Make all the slots the same and the feathers the same thickness - probably in the range of a 1/16" and 3/32". My slots are generally the thickness of my saw blade. You want them to flex - all of 'em at once with some pressure, but not a lot of pressure, so depending on the wood you use, you'll just have to feel it out.
Make a few of a few different shapes. Don't put too much energy into them until you find out what works for you. You'll find your favorite in just a few minutes, but different shapes have different applications.
I attached an outline drawing of a couple of my fav shapes.
Firewood; a couple of suggestions. For your push stick, use 3/4 plywood, this way you won't have to worry about grain orientation and the chance of it breaking should something dramatic happen. I used a plane handle as a pattern for the grip and a flat sole with a small notch to grab the board with. For a feather board, I used a homemade job for years, but a couple of years ago, I picked one up at a show. This model slides into the mitre gauge, position in place and tighten the knob which spreads an aluminum bar tight against the mitre gauge slot. No clamps and it does not twist about. For the 10 dollars or so it was a very good investment. I've seen them for sale recently at Lee Valley Tools.
Regards,
Greg
Firewood - When you find a particular shape (or shapes) of push stick you like, make a template out of thin material and hang it on the wall for safe keeping. The bottom of a pushstick can get torn up pretty quickly working with narrow stock on the TS, and the hardboard template will be much more useful than paper for quickly making replacements.
Be seeing you...
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