Replies

1. 
   DonStephan | Feb 17, 2011 08:03pm | #1

   Alex:

   I notice this happening all the time.  My suspicion is that friction with the blade tends to pull the piece away from the fence.  When pushing by hand I am simulating the setup of the mentioned power feeder - towards the back of the saw and towards the fence.  When using a push stick it is not possible to also push towards the fence.

   You can use a feather board to push towards the fence.

   I've always suspected that a well adjusted splitter or riving knife would keep the stock tight against the fence.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Feb 18, 2011 09:27am | #2

   sticks vs. blocks

   My push sticks are more like blocks with handles on them. That is, pieces varying in width and about 8-10 inches long, used flat on the stock with a trailing lip to catch the end of the stock. I glue rubber material to the bottom side, as well, to increase grip on the stock, and raised handles keep fingers well away from the blade.

   In contrast, with a traditional bird's-beak push stick, if the stick placement is right of center, the far end of the stock will naturally tend to move to the left, away from the fence.

3. 
   bduffin104 | Feb 18, 2011 10:35am | #3

   Push sticks

   I make my push sticks about six at a time from 1/2" plywood. The style I use allows me to push down and twist the stock against the fence as well as pushing it forward. 

   There is a natural tendacy for the stock to want to drift away from the fence but should only be a problem with the last 18" of a rip. Just use another stick with the left and ushing the side off the rip against the fence. You still will have to just push through the last 6" or so. Do all you side pressure and feather board settups in front of the blade. I would be very dangerous to reach beyond the blade to push it the rip against the fence.

   This style of push stick works with the jointer too.

   Bret

   
4. 
   AlexMellor | Feb 18, 2011 03:34pm | #4

   Thanks all

   Thanks everyone for your responses.

   Ralph I suspect your solution would work better for longer boards since a longer / larger push stick would provide more surface area to apply pressure downward and towards the fence. I'll try it out.

   I also need to make sure I'm using featherboards whenever possible to reduce travel of the piece away from the fence. I haven't done this consistently in the past.