Has anyone encountered this problem? I removed one of the two blades on my miter trimmer and sharpened it. After I reinstalled it, instead of pulling the molding I was trimming into the blade as it cut, it pushed it out away from the blade. I shimmed it so it was square with both the table and the fence but it still refuses to draw the molding into the blade and fence. I called Grizzly, who sold me the trimmer and thier rep drew a complete blank. This thing isn’t the Mars rover for gosh sakes! How can this problem be so tough to correct? HELP!!
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Daft question, maybe. Which way are the teeth pointing? Slainte.
NO...He has a Guillotine type miter trimmer...like a LYON. blades are like a big knife that slides and SLICES a vetry thin slice.
Ha, ha. That confirms it was a daft question. Slainte.Website
Like sphere said, it has two knife blades, no teeth.
Is the motor running in the wrong direction?
Ken K
Like I said to Slainte.
Is the flat of the blade towards the bed? if reversed it won't cut it. Did you HONE it or Grind it? Both? NO backbevel..never. No wire edge..ever. rehone might solve it if ya have a dulle dge.
The flat edge is toward the bed, I honed it, no grinding, no backbevel. Its razor sharp. It cuts like a hot knife through butter. It just wants to push the wood away from the blade, even if I clamp the piece. Its crazy!
Mac,
The mitre trimmer should niether pull your work into the cut or push it out as the blade's moving - the trimmer needs a dead straight cut to be successful, which means that the workpiece stays anchored against the fence while the cut is made.
How much honing did you do to the blade? sounds as though the honing's not square to the face of the blade.
If it isn't square, I wouldn't play around any more - take it to your local saw doctor, give them approx USD10 and get them to re-square. Far quicker and easier option (this is about what a resharpen would cost here)
Cheers,
eddie
One side is honed flat, the other at a 30 degree bevel. I'm not sure what you mean when you said 'not square to the face of the blade'. It worked just fine before I honed it. How could removing a thousandth of an inch throw everything out of wack? Is this thing that sensitive? Am I the only one who ever took the time to sharpen one of these things and run into this? One good thing about this.......I've learned some new swear words that I can use on future projects!!
There appear to be only two possibilities:
Either you effectively have a back bevel on the knife from honing, or the knife isn't seated properly on the cutter head. These machines are finicky, and even .001 can make a difference.
Take the knife back out and get every bit if dust off the knife and its bed. Check for burrs, and re-install the knife. If there are torque specifications, follow them; otherwise snug the fasteners down evenly. They can distort the blades if tightened improperly.
If that doesn't do the job, do as Eddie said. Take it to someone who regularly does knives for paper shears. Those knives generally come back sharp enough to literally shave a curl off a hair, and perfectly flat.
Michael R
Well Woodwiz, you were right. I started thinking about what you said and the possibility of a back bevel seemed like a plausable explaination. I checked the blade with a magnifying glass and there it was, a small, unintentional, back bevel! I honed off the bevel and the trimmer works just fine. Thanks.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback.
Michael R.
No, you're not the only one,
picture framers do this all the time.
All they touch is the bevelled part of the blade. My apologies here - I'm used to a blade that's a square edge.
Follow Michael's advice - sounds as though the cutting face isn't square as I said earlier but don't sweat at it too long - if you can't get it, take the blade to a saw doctor.
Cheers,
eddie
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled