Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 19, 2003 05:58pm | #1

   Ahneed

      Bo-shield T-9 developed by Boeing Aircraft would be my choice if I stored for awhile. Available most WW stores. The WD-40 is not truly a lubricant. Look on the can and see if it mentions lubricant anywhere. It is kind of like carb cleaner. It does leave an oily film for a few days, but that dries out quickly.

      I will get an argument here, but anyone that does please read the can first. ha..ha..

   Good day...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 19, 2003 06:08pm | #2

   Thanks, Sarge -

   No argument from here, and that's why I posted the question.

   Is there something that's a bit more generic then this Bo-shield stuff ?

   Not sure if it's something that can be found easily on the East coast.

   Sounds like a common item in Washington/Oregon area.

   I will mention this to my friend.

2. 
   pzaxtl | Apr 23, 2008 01:10am | #25

   Sarge,

   I posted the exact same comments on WD-40 and some numbnut (don't remember who) made a stink that WD-40 was in fact a lubricant.  My philosopy since is to let the willfully ignorant remain so.

   Michael

2. 
   ToolDoc | Jun 19, 2003 06:08pm | #3

   Sarge hit the nail on the head about the WD40 it does dry up too quickly, have your friend apply a coat of car wax on all cast iron surfaces & he will be fine for storage..

                                      ToolDoc

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 19, 2003 06:16pm | #4

   Thank-you, Tool Doc -

   Your suggestion will be forwarded pronto.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 19, 2003 07:23pm | #5

   Ahneed

      Wops.... Disregard about the WD-40 not being a lubricate. The can does say that now as I just read it. This is an old argument that went back about 25 years when there was no true lubricant in it. I found it out form Aircraft Mechanics and Auto Mechanics that were paying attention.

      Me thinks the ingredients have been added to as it clearly states it lubircates now. It still will dry very quickly as Doc states. I don't think it doesn't have much lub in it as the original was basically meant to clean then add a lube after the film dried.

   Guess I can't keep up with changes.. My error...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   RoyinMD | Jun 19, 2003 07:48pm | #6

   Thanks Sarge, You arguing with yourself saved me the trouble of having to pull out my WD-40 can tonight and reading that small d--- print. :o) Lightest oil in the world ain't it!

   Oh! Back on topic, clean and wax is my vote.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 19, 2003 08:05pm | #7

   Gents -

   I appreciate the feedbacks.

   Since the purpose is to add a protective film, I like the wax idea.

   WD-40 is very convenient in spray form, but it sounds like it's not a thorough and long-term thing.

   When you say auto wax, you talking about regular paste wax such as carnuba ?

   All sorts of fancy stuff out there, some containing silicone.

2. 
   ToolDoc | Jun 19, 2003 08:11pm | #8

   Just plain old paste wax like simonixe or turtle wax will work, Glad to be able to help a fellow Knoter..

                                              Tooldoc

3. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 19, 2003 08:29pm | #9

   Thanks so much for the fast reply -

   Not sure if I can qualify myself as a fellow Knoter just yet.

   I skip over here occasionally from Breaktime.

   I do hope to get more into FWW type stuff - well, more like WW to start with.

   Thanks again.

4. 
   ToolDoc | Jun 19, 2003 08:42pm | #10

   Hey Welcome to Knots.. I post over at Breaktime too its great..

                               ToolDoc

5. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 23, 2008 03:10pm | #27

   FYI: http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

6. 
   woodnwine | Jul 25, 2003 12:08am | #20

   Hello there, 

   I have had the same question, as some of my tool beds are rusting.  I asked the same question to a sharpening shop and a large woodworking supply house.  Both answered by saying to use Johnson's Paste Wax, like you would find at the grocery store or local ACE, etc.  Of course you would want to clean your surface with a rust remover of some type.  I use Navel Jelly for iron.  Both places cautioned me to not put excess amounts of paste wax on, otherwise it might transfer to the wood, and not take a stain real well.

   Hope this has been helpful.

   Alex

7. 
   AhneedHelp | Jul 25, 2003 01:36am | #21

   Thanks for the reply, Alex -

   I think my friend, whom I was posting for, went with a light coat of paste wax.

8. 
   PelhamPete | Jul 25, 2003 04:52pm | #22

   Hi All,

   I know that this is largely inapplicable to large power tools, I thought it still may be of interest .... I have occasionally heard of using camphor tablets (or paste e.g., "vapo-rub" for colds) to prevent rust on, say, handtools stored in cabinets; one is supposed to be able to just stick it in the corner of the cabinet and- voila; rust prevention! 

    The problem is- As this advise came from credible sources IMO, AND it seems like the easiest of all possible methods, AND I rarely ever hear it mentioned in discussions about rust-prevention (much less ever even seen it offered in a WW catalog), something seems wrong here.  Has anyone ever used it and does it really work?

   -Peter T.

9. 
   CLENENT1000 | Apr 22, 2008 05:13pm | #23

   I have purchased camphor tablets ,sevaral years back from the Shop Smith Factory in Dayton, Ohio.

   I put a small cut in each plastic wrapper and laid one tablet in each drawer of my router bits.  After many years of this treatment I have yet to see any signs of rust on my bits.

   I do not see these camphor tablets in Shop Smith catalogue any more so I am stil searching for a supplier.

   Just thought that I would add this to the discussion.

   Clement.

10. 
    KiddervilleAcres | Apr 22, 2008 05:24pm | #24

    Clement,

    Google is your friend.

    Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

11. 
    RANGERP75R | Jun 20, 2003 03:54am | #12

    Ahneed

       The Simoniz or Turtle is great. They contain a portion of carnuba. Pure carnuba is a bear to get on and off when it dries. Just avoid the waxes with silicone. The silicone will screw up a finish as it transfers from the tops to the stock when you work it.

       After he finishes the was job, he might consider getting a roll of shrink wrap and wrapping it completely if the tool's will sit for awhile. Just warn him not to leave any extra pieces laying around if there are any children that have access.

    Good Luck...

    sarge..jt

12. 
    RANGERP75R | Jun 20, 2003 03:45am | #11

    Roy

       Ha..ha.. At one time it didn't have a lube at all. It was originally meant to clean out grit, etc. It does contain petro-distillates so that's where the oily film comes from. It's usually gone in a day or two.

       They may have added some oil so they can say lubricates. The can does say that now as I read one for the first time in about 20 years. I still don't use it as a lubricant, it dries out in a day or two. IMO. I do use it to clean out hinges, etc. and then add graphite or silcone spray. Just don't use the silicone on WW tools and you know why.

       BTW, I liked the "shot glass cabinet". My photography skills are about as good as my computer skills also. Good thing I don't try to make a living from either. he...

    Have a good evening...

    sarge..jt

13. 
    watkinsjd | Jun 22, 2003 08:53pm | #18

    Sarge,

    WD-40 was originally developed for the Govt as a Water Dispersant, ergo WD.  The 40 was apparently for the 40th version.  It does a good job of removing any moisture but it does dry out too fast to provide any long lasting protection or lubrication.

    One thing it does really well is remove the coating they put on the metal parts of new woodworking equipment .  Spray some on the table of your new saw  or jointer and after a few seconds you can wipe the gunk right off.

    John

14. 
    RANGERP75R | Jun 22, 2003 09:04pm | #19

    Doc

       I was not aware of the Gov't thing. I became aware of the drying out rather quickly. I as most thought it was a pure lubricant 30 years ago. Aircraft mech and auto mech told me to read the can.

       Still use ti to clean as it acts as a not so harsh carb cleaner. Gets tons of grit and loose rust praticles and leaves that oily film. I think that's what decieves you into thinking the lube part. Take a look in a few days and gone. "It's Magic". ha....

    Have a good day...

    sarge..jt

3. 
   ian | Jun 20, 2003 03:51pm | #13

   I think FWW some years ago carried an article or mentioned this in the question segment.  What I particularly remember is the importance of removing as much of the saw dust (preferably all) as you can.  Apparaently the dust absorbs moisture and promotes rust.

4. 
   seelgs | Jun 21, 2003 08:58pm | #14

   I used to use a product called LPS3.  It contains oils and waxes that don't dry out.  Used to get it at electronics supply houses (Fry's, in the old days).

   http://www.lpslabs.com/

   It worked well for me.

   Regards, Larry

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 21, 2003 10:13pm | #15

   Larry

      I remember that stuff. The Boeing T-9 is very similar as it is a special mixture or oils an paraffin wax that was produced by Boeing Aircraft for the rust prevention purpose.

   Have a good week-end...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   johnnyinbda | Jun 22, 2003 01:14am | #16

   I was going to ask a similar question along the same line, I have a unisaw 36-844, a 22-680 planer and a dc that that have never been opened for 1 1/2 years in eastern Canada in an unheated garage, will this have any effect on the electronics, I know the factory coats all the cast iron very well. ThanksJohnnyinbda

1. 
   seelgs | Jun 22, 2003 09:21am | #17

   Johnny,

   Basing these comments on a lot of years in electronics, you have a larger than zero (but not much) chance of stress damage to commercial grade electronics if long-term storage involved many temperature cycles below -20 C.

   However, woodworking machinery contains mostly switches, wires and motors.  The only thing that could fall in the above area is variable speed controls.  I think drive belts with permanent "bumps" would be a far bigger problem.

   Cheers, Larry

5. 
   RickLoDico | Apr 23, 2008 05:18am | #26

   I recently had to put all my tools in storage for five months. I put a heavy coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on all the cast iron surfaces but it didn't seem to have any effect at all. All the machines were covered in rust. WD40 and 600 grit sand paper are taking it off but it's a real hassle.

1. 
   Ray | Apr 23, 2008 04:16pm | #28

   When I stored mine, I bought a couple of cans of LPS-4 (hard to find), it leaves a nasty, waxy coating like cosmoline.  The tools were shipped from Washington to Alabama via Minnesota in the dead of winter and didn't develop any rust.  It was developed for the military for outdoor storage of metals.  A couple of rags with mineral spirits cleaned them up just fine.

   Edited 4/23/2008 9:17 am ET by Ray

1. 
   AndyE | Apr 24, 2008 03:31am | #29

   http://www.roversnorth.com/store/pm-5726-15-waxoyl-rust-inhibitor-clear-500ml-aerosol.aspx

   A google search took me to cell phone hell. It took a few minutes, but was found.

   http://www.minimania.com/web/SUBTYPE/SearchText/Search/WAXOYL/AddedFrom/Search/Search_Inventory.cfm

   If you ever need more...

   Andy

2. 
   AndyE | Apr 24, 2008 03:39am | #30

   And if all else fails...

   http://realbig.com/miata/1995-02/772.html

   Andy

1. 
   Ray | Apr 24, 2008 03:49am | #31

   Thanks for the recipe, I'll try it on my MG :-)

   Edited 4/23/2008 8:49 pm ET by Ray