Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 01, 2004 07:42am | #1

   If you haven't already spent all your money, :) buy the book Understanding Wood, by Bruce Hoadley. Taunton has it if you don't already have a favorite bookstore.

   The answers to your questions depend a lot on how you balance the different values you expect from your wood. Intended use, figure, warpage, time and facilities available for drying, and yield are just a handful of factors that would lead you to a completely different sawing plan than I would use. Hoadley's book will give you the information you need to decide how to weight those factors, as well as others I've certainly left out.

1. 
   csamuel | Jan 01, 2004 07:02pm | #3

   Thanks, I was looking for some good reference material on the subject and appreciate the input.  I had recalled the book but couldn't recall the title/author until your message.  I appreciate the help.

2. 
   BobSmalser | Jan 01, 2004 07:44am | #2

   I've been milling for 4 decades, and have a few posts on the subject here in the Gallery if you want to search.

   You'll need a mixture of both flat and riftsawn.  Riftsawn being the log sliced in half and set on edge to produce VG boards...pure q-sawing is too wasteful.

   The reason you want both is stability and contrast....large door rails/stiles/jams are always best q-sawn for stability and strength...and panels resawn and bookmatched from flatsawn stock for figure.

   The q-sawn provides a stable and plain backround to frame your fancy panels in....flatsawn against flatsawn is often too busy.

   “When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.

1. 
   csamuel | Jan 01, 2004 07:07pm | #4

   You hit one of my concerns head on but was worried I was off base.  Are there any woods that are just too bland to waste the wood quarter-sawing?  Also. I opened up a maple yesterday and found it vibrant with pink and grey streaking in line with the grain and the full length and nearly full diameter of the log.  I have not seen this before, is it common and is it anything to be concerned with?  It was quite striking in appearance.

1. 
   BobSmalser | Jan 02, 2004 05:07am | #10

   Different soil minerals produce different colors...a wonderful thing...flatsaw the pretty parts of that maple to take advantage of them.

   And heed my words about fancy panels...the fancier the panel, the plainer ya want the rails and stiles...otherwise it can look like it belongs in a cathouse somewhere, eh?

   Few folks have rift-sawn material available to take advantage of it...you do...exploit it.“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.

1. 
   csamuel | Jan 02, 2004 05:15am | #11

   I was thinking of using it for doors on a cabinet with a panel insert where the outer perimiter and center panel were of typical more reserved grain and placing it at an angle as the background.  Then I can very the exposure with the width of the perimiter and size of teh center panel.  I agree, it could be overwhelming if overdone.  I had also contemplated it as a radial patern in the center of a coffee table or end table top like one might highlight a burl.  Any other good ideas?

1. 
   BobSmalser | Jan 02, 2004 07:07pm | #14

   Go to baileys-online.com of CA and TENN, where loggers, sawyers and arborists shop...best prices...I have an account there.

   They have a wood conversion book that goes into all the details...and just about ecerything else you'll need.“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.

3. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 01, 2004 08:08pm | #5

   I vote for slab sawing the hickory and walnut and quarter sawing part of the cherry if the cherry is of sufficient diameter.  If the cherry is to small then just saw for the best quality you can.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

   
   

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   Edited 1/1/2004 12:13:44 PM ET by PlaneWood

1. 
   csamuel | Jan 01, 2004 10:51pm | #6

   The cherry are reported to be 28" to 36" in diameter so this should not be a problem.  I say reported as they are still standing at a friends house in Pennsylvania (I'm in Michigan - five trees should be worth the drive) waiting to be taken down and I haven't seen them first hand yet.  The walnut and hickory are 16 " to 20" so this will be best anyway.  Thanks for the input.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 02, 2004 02:17am | #7

   >>The cherry are reported <<

   More than one?  Wow, u got a gold mine there!  I just cut one on my place that is about 20" in diameter.  Looking for a woodmizer guy to slab it out for me.   I brought some of the smaller diameter home and have started quartering them on my bandsaw to make 2x2's.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   csamuel | Jan 02, 2004 03:43am | #8

   I was pretty excited.  The trees hang over his lot line and his neighbor has been bugging him to remove them.  He tried to sell them, but couldn't find anyone to come out for just five trees, so rather than pay to have them removed he said if I wanted them they were mine for the taking.  Can't beat that.  That's how I ended up buying the mill in the first place; I had another friend digging a pond and he gave me eight oak, five maple, and five hickory.  I just had to help him drop them.  Now that I have it, people are coming out of the woodwork (no pun intended).  I have another friend taking a 40" diameter oak off his grandfathers lot and he is going to split the wood with me and another with a walnut about 3' with the same arrangement.  I'm loving this lumber mill.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 02, 2004 05:02am | #9

   Fantastic!

   Just don't get in a hurry, and when you get tired, quit for the day.  About the only thing more dangerous than logging is crabbing in the north pacific ocean!  I've had a few close calls - mostly caused by doing something stupid.  (like cutting a 3' diameter oak on a 45 degrees slope in below zero temperature.  That thing let out an explosive crack and was down in a fraction of a second and went just opposite of where it was supposed to go.)

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   csamuel | Jan 02, 2004 05:21am | #12

   Don't worry, I've had my hare of injuries and decided I'm getting too old for that.  My doctor says it's not the years, but the mileage you have to worry about and to start treating my body like a lease vehicle.  I have two good helpers, a wench and some other mechanical advantage to work with.  I'm already planning on two to three trips anyways, just due to the limitations of trailering it all back.

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Jan 02, 2004 06:43pm | #13

   ...two good helpers, a wench and some other....

   it's those wenches you have to look out for - - I think the lease specifically forbids them...  ;>)

4. 
   csamuel | Jan 02, 2004 07:30pm | #15

   Oh thanks, my wife was behind me when I read your message.  I'll have to trade her in now!!  Anyone willing to trade for a good winch. . . the wench I mean, not the wife.