I’m ready for something new for my next project. My son’s first bed out of the cradle (a twin). I can purchase some quarter sawn sycamore for a good price. Anyone have any experience with this in terms of planing, sanding and finishing? I plan on laying on some bullseye seal coat and then a couple layers of clear acrylic to provide a non-yellow finish. No stain or oil so I’m not worried about blotchyness.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Hey Truejoint,
I've used some Sycamore. It's relatively soft (a little harder than poplar), works easily, finishes smoothly. Things to look for-- when buying sycamore, look closely at each board. It's unstable and prone to checks, splits, and honeycombing. Radial and tangential movement are quite large. That said, quarter-sawn is much more stable, and is one of the prettiest American hardwoods. The medullary rays and color combine to look as if it's lit from within. It's stunning when you have a nice piece. Pick your wood carefully, and design to compensate for its weaknesses. It will be an heirloom-quality piece.
Luck to you,
Steve
Great. I was checking it out at the lumber yard Saturday. They have lots of narrow (6" or less) boards that are 10' long and are very straight so I hope that's a good sign. They were buried in sawdust and the yard owner was pushing them on me. I think most folks are scared to touch them because of their reputation for movement.
However, I live in an area that probably experiences the least amount of annual change in moisture content so I'm on a campaign to use some of the woods that others may steer away from. I've made a couple beds out of soft maple now with floating panels. No problems at all so far with them rattling and no problems with any of the joints, so I think as long as the furniture doesn't end up in New Hampshire after I die then they'll be around for quite a while. A friend of mine moved from Missouri to Alaska and kept a house full of antique furniture in a storage unit up there for a bit. It came apart during the winter.
If the yard owner was trying to get you to buy the boards, ask for a deal- he wants to get rid of it. Nice looking wood, though.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I am so timid when it comes to that, but hey you've inspired me.
I was disappointed in the FWW article about the "5 woods you've never used that you should". I can't figure out why folks seem stuck on cherry, maple, walnut and bubinga or whatever. The article was a little short on options in my opinion.
It also bugs me that the various oaks are lumped into white and red or that all of the hickories and ash are mixed. There is a whole world of good wood out there and on the other hand I can see that a lot of problems folks encounter with their projects may simply be due to using a poorly suited species that got lumped in with some of the good stuff (the southern red oaks - other than nuttal and maybe shumard - in my opinion are suited only for railroad ties and pallets). Maybe the magazine has delved into this in the past, but a little more wood education would be a great thing. Ok, I'll get off my soapbox.
As I understand it, boards under 6" in width are less inclined to severe movement problems. If they're quartersawn (it will be obvious), they'll be even more stable. Don't be afraid to hammer the guy for a deal. I paid $2.50 at a mill in Tennessee this past summer. He didn't have much, but most of it was really pretty.
Where do you live that's so stable?
Luck,
Steve
Houston, Texas. The humidity in the house varies from 55 to 65% winter to summer. Of course either the heat or AC is almost always on. Outside humidity averages 60% in winter and 70% in summer.
Well, the stock I looked at was a little dissapointing in that it only came as 4/4 quartersawn. I wanted to use this for making a bed with 3" square posts. It looks like I'll have to glue up 4 boards in order to achieve the 3" thickness. Is this worth it or should I go with another species like white oak which seems to be about the same color and comes as 8/4 boards (not quartersawn)? I've never glued this many boards together to get a thick plank so I have no experience with how the result will look or hold up.
Truejoint,
If you have a bandsaw, you can resaw a nice looking board into 1/8" or so pieces, then take a piece of maple, oak, or whatever hardwood and laminate the pieces to it. Just miter the edges (45 degree chamfer) and "wrap" the leg. Voila--1/4 sawn on all four sides, and you didn't waste any pretty wood or sacrifice strength. In fact, you will have made the bed stronger (using a stronger wood for the core). If you don't have a bandsaw, find a friend or wood shop that does. Let me know if you start looking for a bandsaw later. Post pice as you move along.
I have to finish a dresser for my grand son, and then start on a bed for him. I hope to have it finished before he goes to college--he's four months old now.
Luck
Steve
Veneering, sounds scary for some reason but why not. I really want the quartersawn sycamore look all around the piece so I'll give it a try. I'm going to finish it with garnet shellac. The panels in the foot and head board as well as the rails are going to be heartwood pecan. This is a beautiful, chocolate colored wood that moves the same amount as the sycamore. I'll post pictures as things progress. Right now I'm waiting for it to warm up before I get back into the shop. Been spending my 1 night a week I get (my wife and I have a long-standing deal on this) designing the bed and a built in set of shelves with computer desk.
Steve, I run across a fellow in East Tn. that had a room full of 1/4 sawn, I didn't get a price but it was very nice figure. I took a sample (a cut off because of a swirley grain) and after I wet it down to remove the pull out on the planner, it was beautiful. He had boards 8-12-14" and long too. I think I will look again when I go down in late Mar.
Where are you in Tn. ? Paddy
Hey Paddydahat,
I'm in Berea, Ky. off I-75 exit 77. Where i got this stuff was a little sawmill in Blaine, Tn. close to Strawberry Plains. The sycamore was ok, the red oak was nice (really wet, but that was expected), ash was NICE ( it had been there a LONG time and was dry). The main point of the trip was poplar, and that was a disappointment. Used it all, but really random widths made it harder to get what i need.
Where in Tn are you? I'd walk barefoot in a snowstorm from here to Murfreesboro, Tn. to get pretty wood at a good price. If you get a price from him, let me know and of course where he is.
Thanks,
Steve
Just remember, any day that starts and ends with a pulse is a good day.
Steve, I am moving to the East end of Rogersville in Stanley valley,Hawkins county. (dry by the way DUH), Full Cycle Wood works is in Caney valley IIR to my West at 1600 hwy 70 north. It's two large very old buildings on a large property. It's run by Ron Highsmith and his wife. He's a very skilled cabinet maker who also sells wood. He has two portable band saw mills that I saw, a big yard full of logs, a klin and big finishing machines inside.423-272-6003.
Sounds like you are to our North West in Mr. Boggs territory, not too far but still a trip. I hope this works out for you. I am planning to be in Tn. around Patty's day. All the best, Paddy
Paddy,
Thanks for the heads-up. I to will have to wait for spring. This next week it'll be below zero at night. Most definately too cold to think about working in the shop. Sounds like my kind of place--if his prices are reasonable. I can get most any kind of domestic hardwood about an hour away in Morehead, Ky. Nice operation, very professional, very big, excellent grading, and good pricing. His sycamore, however, is flat sawn. Too expensive for him to quarter saw.
Brian's shop is right downtown Berea, also Warren May, Doug and Wally Haley, Kelly Mehler, ad infinitum. If you ever feel the need to feel inadequate, come on up.
Dry territory? Never heard of do-it-yourself?
Stay in touch. Best to you.
Steve
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled