I recently bought some quartersawn white oak (i’ve never worked with it before) for a project and was curious about planing the ray fleck away. It’s 5/4 and I’m planning on planing it down to a final thickness of 7/8″, and I’m worried about planing the beautiful rays away to a spot of the wood that isn’t that showy if that makes any sense. Is this a valid concern or should I just go for it and see what lies beneath? I thought about just flattening the good side down, then planing the other side to thickness, but I always plane each side equally to keep the warping down. Maybe just over thinking it lol any thoughts?
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Replies
You get maximum rays when the growth rings meet the surface at a right angle. As you plane the planks you can pretty much predict if the rays will increase or not.
If you have a surface you like, do whatever you can to save that surface.
As Gulfstar says, the ray-flecks (medullary rays) show only when the face of the wood has been cut at exactly a right angle to the direction of the tree's growth rings. Unless the tree was a big 'un, those tree rings are likely to show a curve in your plank, so taking off a significant amount from a face showing the rays gives a chance that they'll cease to show, as the cut-face drifts away from that necessary 90 degrees to the tree rings. Even 88 degrees can start to hide them, the rascals!
This has caught me out more than once when trying to resaw a thick quarter-sawn plank to retain those ray flecks on all the faces. It only works if the tree was so large that the thick quarter-sawn plank to be resawn or otherwise reduced in thickness shows tree rings that are near-straight, with ray flecks already showing on both faces.
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There's usually a show-face and a back face to a plank going into a piece of furniture, so to preserve any medullary rays that are currently shown, make that the show face and thin the plank by taking wood off the back face, if you can.
Lataxe
I also like to plane equal amount from each side, but it doesn't need to be exact. I also try to save the best face on figured wood.
Clean up what you think will be the show side, then start thicknessing the other. Going from 5/4 to 7/8ths isn't a big leap. If you take more off the back than the front, it won't be a big difference.
My experience is it changes a little, but you're not going to plane away the ray fleck. The medullary rays run across the grain.
That said, the side I like the most I try to leave alone.
Are your planks kiln dried? If they have a low (7% or so) moisture content, I would not expect any cupping, even if you take more off one side.
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