Replies

1. 
   Steve_Schoene | Feb 12, 2000 12:23am | #1

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   I made a Shaker style table with a cherry top that has several boards that started off darker than most of the others. As the table has aged they have remained darker in about the same relative degree as when they were first finished. Probably not what you wanted to hear.

1. 
   Colin_Stokes | Jun 19, 2000 05:00am | #2

   *I am in the middle of a project using cherry ( reproduction of a Nantucket settle) and all but one board are consistent in colouring ( not a misspelling I'm English !)The Odd board is to be milled for the rear legs / backrest. I have read that posing cherry to direct sunlight will darken its colour dramatically and in a relatively short time frame. I intend to experiment with this technique which I,I sure will be trial and error. I don't know if you would be able to use this method as your "Light" drawer front already has a poly finisploy?finishhis helps you if you encounter a similar problem in the future.Colin Stokes

1. 
   Colin_Stokes | Jun 19, 2000 05:02am | #3

   *I am in the middle of a project using cherry ( reproduction of a Nantucket settle) and all but one board are consistent in colouring ( not a misspelling I'm English !)The Odd board is to be milled for the rear legs / backrest. I have read that exposing cherry to direct sunlight will darken its colour dramatically and in a relatively short time frame. I intend to experiment with this technique which I'm sure will be trial and error. I don't know if you would be able to use this method as your "Light" drawer front already has a poly finish? .I hope this helps you if you encounter a similar problem in the future.Colin Stokes

1. 
   Rod_Cole | Jun 19, 2000 04:31pm | #4

   *Sunlight will darken cherry with or without finish applied, and even with sunlight it takes time for cherry to fully darken. I used cherry for a dining room floor, in a room with lots of windows. I let the floor sit in the sun for several days, then finished. Then let the floor sit in the sun for 10 days, before putting down a rug in the middle of the floor. The sun darkening was fairly dramatic day by day, but now a year later, the floor under the rug is much lighter than the floor that continued to be exposed to sunlight.The floor also has a wide difference in color, board to board, which looks great on the floor, but might not be what you want in a piece of furniture.- Rod Cole

1. 
   Colin_Stokes | Jul 07, 2000 05:27am | #5

   *I Wiring Dilemma !I am soon to be the proud owner of a new cabinet saw. This is the first item of machinery I have that requires a 230 volt single phase connection/outlet.So far I have had no less than three different pieces of advice on how I should install the new wiring.I have discounted one of them just based on common sense. I was advised to use a 30 amp breaker to protect 12/2 wire!To account for the surge of maps required at start up. ( single phase 3 horse TEFC motor). To me , that means the weak link becomes the wire as it is only rated for 20 maps and potentially is a fire hazard. This information was I mailed to me by the table saw manufacturers technical dept.!I am originally from the U.K. and have very limited knowledge of U.S. electrics. The advice I am most comfortable with is to use a double pole 20 amp breaker that is connected to both 110 legs in the main panel.Use 12/2 and ground cable ( not exceeding more than 20 feet from panel to outlet.) and make the circuit a dedicated /isolated one just for the saw. Outlet is rated 220 volt 20amp . I also purchased an armoured plug also rated for 220 volts and 20 amps.The saw should'nt draw more than 9 amps when running and I think the start up surge should be adequately covered with a 20 amp rating. I would really appreciate advice and or comments to let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks.

2. 
   jerrol | Aug 21, 2000 04:37am | #6

   *To UK Colin:The 12-2 w/ground is the way to go, using a double-pole 20 amp breaker. The amps are split between the two circuits, so, no problem.Yes, keep it dedicated.